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Color and composition of beauty products formulated with lemongrass essential oil: Cosmetics formulation with lemongrass essential oil

  • Thien Hien Tran EMAIL logo , Thi Kim Ngan Tran , Thi Cam Quyen Ngo , Tri Nhut Pham , Long Giang Bach , Nguyen Quynh Anh Phan and Thi Hong Nhan Le EMAIL logo
Published/Copyright: July 13, 2021
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Open Chemistry
From the journal Open Chemistry Volume 19 Issue 1

Abstract

Diversification of products that are derived from essential oils carries important implications in reducing agricultural waste and promoting the medicinal materials industry. In this study, we formulated a shampoo and a body wash product incorporated with lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) essential oils (LEOs) and evaluated their color stability and the LEO compositional change. We first determined the color change and chemical composition of bare LEO under different storage conditions. Afterward, the washing product base was formulated, and its formulation process was optimized to minimize the color change by varying a wide range of parameters including pH, the inclusion of preservatives and antioxidants, LEO/antioxidant ratio, and emulsification temperature. The base product was then used in body wash and shampoo formulation following our previously reported procedure. The results indicated that direct incorporation of the LEO into the cosmetic products resulted in better color stability and citral retention in comparison with emulsion formation. In addition, shampoo and body wash products showed no detectible presence of compounds resulting from citral decomposition such as 3,7-dimethyl-1,3,6-octatriene, p-mentha-1,5-dien-8-ol, and p-cymene-8-ol. The current findings are expected to aid in diversifying LEO-derived commodities and justifying scalability of the cosmetics production process with a focus on the incorporation of naturally derived ingredients.

Keywords: Cymbopogon citratus ; essential oils; shampoo; body wash; color stability; cosmetic formulation

1 Introduction

Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) is a common plant ingredient that is used widely in daily applications and in folk medicine [1,2,3,4]. The main product derived from the lemongrass plant, lemongrass essential oil (LEO), is also a commodity that is widely used in the food industry due to its predominant content of citral in its composition, which confers the LEO with potent antibacterial activity and pleasant, favorable aroma [5,6,7,8]. Additionally, the LEO is also a common material in the manufacture of medicinal products such as antifungal agents, antidepressants, and indigestion remedies.

Despite that, the increasingly rapidly growing area of lemongrass has brought about excess output on both the raw material and LEO, causing difficulty in solving the surplus LEO and calling for diversification of products that are mainly or partially derived from LEO. Apart from medicinal products, products that are manufactured with LEO as a major component are quite limited in Vietnam, mostly comprising insect repellent products and a relaxation agent. As a result, new and novel attempts to incorporate LEO into consumers’ products such as personal care and home products are essential to the valorization of lemongrass and contribute to ease the burden of lemongrass output in the upcoming years [9,10].

The main challenge in introducing LEO into consumer products is that the citral component in LEO is highly susceptible to conversion by acid catalysts and oxidative degradation, especially in the presence of light and heat, leading to the formation of the intensity change of flavor [11,12]. The decomposition of citral is more expedited at a higher temperature, light, and available oxygen in this compound and may produce other compounds such as p-cymene, p-cymene-8-ols, p-mentha-1,5-dien-8-ol, p-menthadien-8-ol, α,p-dimethylstyrene, p-methylacetophenone, and p-cresol, which may further alter the aroma intensity of LEO [12,13,14,15,16,17,18]. To address this issue, various measures have been devised to prevent or mitigate the decomposition of citral, including the use of spray-drying technique, the formation of oil-in-water emulsions, and the manufacture of micelles and reverse micelles to stabilize citral in the oil phase [19,20,21]. However, such techniques are more labor-intensive and require modern instruments, thus considerably escalating manufacturing costs and in turn affecting consumers’ acceptance due to the high price sensitivity of demands for home products.

Driven by the aforementioned trusts, this study aims to evaluate the stability of LEO in the formulation of various cosmetic products. We first evaluated the color change and chemical composition of LEO under different storage conditions. Then, the formulating process of a washing product base was optimized to minimize the color change in the base. The best product base was then used in the formulation of two cosmetic products, including body wash and shampoo, following our previously reported procedure. Finally, the two products were then evaluated for the LEO volatile composition and color change. The findings are expected to aid in diversifying LEO-derived commodities and justifying the scalability of the cosmetics production process with a focus on the incorporation of naturally derived ingredients.

2 Materials and methods

2.1 Materials

LEO was obtained by steam distillation of the leaves of emongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) harvested from Tan Phu Dong district, Tien Giang province, Vietnam (Coordinates 10°15′N 106°39′E). The extraction apparatus was of industrial scale and operated under the following conditions: extraction time, 3 h; material quantity, 639–710 kg per batch. The highest LEO yield was 0.273% (v/w).

2.2 Formulation of simulated product base incorporated with LEO

Formulation of the product base was realized by using base oil, emulsifier, or the lack thereof. The simulated product base was formulated by using four ingredients including LEO, preservatives, additives (base oil, emulsifier, or none), antioxidants, and water. The LEO (and additive) mixture was first mixed with preservatives and antioxidants. The afforded mixture was introduced into heated water (70–80°C) under stirring. The resulting mixture was then allowed to naturally cool and homogenized.

The formulation process was first investigated with respect to different base oils (PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil (PEG-400), paraffin oil, and none), varying emulsification temperature (room temperature to 90°C), and different emulsifiers (Tween 80, Tween 20, PEG 40, and none). After determining the appropriate formulation technique, the process was then further optimized by experimenting at different pH values (4–7), different preservatives (sodium benzoate, sodium lactate, DMDM hydantoin (DMDM-H)), antioxidants (butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA), and butylated hydroxy toluene (BHT)), and antioxidant/LEO ratio (0.5:1–2.5:1).

2.3 Formulation of body wash and shampoo products incorporated with LEO

The body wash formulation process was carried out by using the product base following a previous report [20]. Briefly, the product base was separately formulated with the composition and conditions that were determined in previous investigations. Then, another mixture consisting of the main detergent, detergent adjuvant, thickener, foaming agent, humectant, preservative, and skin emollient was prepared separately before being introduced into the mixture. Afterward, NaCl 25% and citric acid 30% were added to the mixture. Finally, the body wash was cooled and poured into a bottle for further evaluation.

The shampoo product was formulated similarly to the body wash formulation, except that the BHT/LEO ratio in the washing base was fixed at 0.5:1 (w/w) [19].

2.4 Determination of pH and the color change

The MP220 pH meter (Mettler Toledo) was used to determine the pH of the sample. The product samples were diluted 100 times before the pH measurement for accurate determination.

The color of the samples was measured by using a CR-400 colorimeter (Konica Minolta, Japan). The liquid product was stored in a glass cuvette placed in a dark chamber for the measurement. The color of the product was determined by the color space L*a*b*. The L*a*b* color space is spherical with three axes: L, a, b. The a-axis runs from −a* (green) to +a* (red) and the b-axis runs from −b* (light green) to +b* (yellow). The brightness axis L* is valid from 0 (black at the bottom) to 100 (white at the top).

The color differences between samples or time points are determined as follows:

Δ L = L 2 − L 1

Δ a = a 2 − a 1

Δ b = b 2 − b 1

Δ E = Δ L 2 + Δ a 2 + Δ b 2

where L, a, and b represent lightness, a-axis, and b-axis, respectively, Subscripts 2 and 1 represent after and before color change, respectively, and ∆ E is the color change indicator.

2.5 Determination of chemical composition

LEOs present in the product samples were first recovered by using hydrodistillation before the samples were used to determine the chemical composition. Briefly, 100 g of the sample was first introduced in water in the ratio of 1:4 (w/w). Hydrodistillation was carried out at a temperature of 120°C until no essential oil could be recovered from the apparatus.

Gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) was adopted to determine the composition of LEO. About 25 μL of the essential oil was diluted in 1.0 mL of n-hexane and dehydrated with Na2SO4 salt. The equipment used was GC Agilent 6890 N (Agilent Technologies, Santa Clara, CA, USA), with MS 5973, HP5-MS column, and column head pressure of 9.3 psi. GC-MS was installed under the following conditions: He carrier gas; flow rate, 1.0 mL/min; split line, 1:100; injection volume, 1.0 μL; and injection temperature, 250°C. The initial temperature was kept at 50°C for 2 min; the oven temperature increased to 80°C at a speed of 2°C/min, from 80 to 150°C at a speed of 5°C/min, from 150 to 200°C at a speed of 10°C/min, from 200 to 300°C at a speed of 20°C/min, and maintained at 300°C for 5 min.

  1. Ethical approval: The conducted research is not related to either human or animal use.

3 Results and discussion

3.1 Color and compositional changes of LEO during storage

The obtained LEO via hydrodistillation was light yellow in color with a characteristically strong citrusy and lemony aroma. The color changes of different LEO samples are detailed in Table 1. At ambient temperature, the color of LEO tended to become darker as the storage time prolonged, yielding the ΔE values of 0.82 and 3.63 for LEO stored after 1 week and 1 month, respectively. However, visual examination of LEO samples revealed that these color changes are indiscernible due to the insignificant change in the intensity of the L index. By contrast, storage at elevated temperature seemed to cause more pronounced darkening in samples, reflected by significantly higher ΔE values compared to their respective values of LEO measured at ambient temperature. The role of heat in accelerating citral transformation has been documented by Peacock and Kuneman [22]. On the other hand, the redistilled LEO displayed a much lighter yellow in color, less pungent aroma than other samples, and was obtained in a lower yield due to the mass loss of around 35.91% of the total essential oil. According to Weerawatanakorn et al. [23], aromatherapy compounds are susceptible to chemical changes that occur in different types of interactions, including oxidation, hydrolysis, thermal destruction, photochemical, and polymerization of unsaturated compounds, adversely affecting the overall fragrance quality of the product. Therefore, the storage temperature of 45°C was selected as the base condition in the subsequent experiment measuring compositional changes in product formulations (Figure 1).

Table 1

Color changes of LEO under different storage and extraction conditions

Index Initial LEO LEO after 1 week at ambient temperature LEO after 1 month at ambient temperature LEO after 1 week at 45°C LEO after 1 month at 45°C Redistilled LEO after 1 month at 45°C
L 61.98 62 61.99 61.79 60.09 62.48
a −7.82 −7.89 −8.4 −8.9 −8.21 −3.87
b 22.57 23.39 26.15 30.47 42.13 10.54
ΔE — 0.82 3.63 7.15 16.09 20.57
Figure 1 Color change of LEO at different time points: (a) initial LEO; (b) after 1 week at room temperature; (c) after 1 month at room temperature; (d) after 1 week at 45°C; (e) after 1 month at 45°C; and (f) redistilled LEO.
Figure 1

Color change of LEO at different time points: (a) initial LEO; (b) after 1 week at room temperature; (c) after 1 month at room temperature; (d) after 1 week at 45°C; (e) after 1 month at 45°C; and (f) redistilled LEO.

The major compounds that were present in the initial LEO sample are summarized in Table 2. In total, 11 volatile compounds were identified, accounting for 99.79% of the total LEO content, of which the percentage of citral amounted to 86.90%, followed by β-myrcene (5.656%), and nerol (3.887%). Other components lower than 1% included 6-methyl-5-hepten-2-one, β-linalool, β-citronellol, geraniol acetate, β-caryophyllen, α-bergamotene, and selina-6-en-4-ol. The composition of LEO in the present sample is similar to that of a previous study where LEO extracted from the lemongrass materials of the same origin showed citral and β-myrcene contents of 79.33 and 16.65%, respectively [21]. The abundance of citral is in line with the result of another review that indicated that LEO contained at least 75% citral and other minor ingredients such as nerol, geraniol, citronellal, terpinolene, geranyl acetate, myrecene, and terpinol methylheptenone [24]. The beneficial effect of citral on the skin membrane was elaborated by a previous study where citral-rich LEO was found to exhibit potent antifungal activities against several yeasts of Candida species and did not cause skin irritation [25]. Furthermore, Modak and Mukhopadhaya [26] also demonstrated the antiobesity effects of citral in a rat model and suggested that the effect could be attributable to the influence of citral on energy production, thus reducing fat accumulation. The role of citral in the food industry was also highlighted by a previous finding suggesting that citral-containing nanoemulsion exhibited potent antibacterial and antibiofilm activity against Listeria monocytogenes, a common foodborne pathogen [27] (Figure 2).

Table 2

Chemical compositions of LEO under different storage and extraction conditions

No. RT (min) Compounds Content (%)
Initial LEO LEO after 1 week at 45°C LEO after 1 month at 45°C Redistilled LEO after 1 month at 45°C
1 9.771 6-Methyl-5-hepten-2-one 0.805 1.149 1.314 1.529
2 9.907 β-Myrcene 5.656 6.025 10.867 3.887
3 12.427 3,7-Dimethyl-1,3,6-octatriene — — 0.395 —
4 16.097 β-Linalool 0.754 0.664 0.805 1.024
5 19.799 p-Mentha-1,5-dien-8-ol — — 0.768 —
6 20.667 p-Cymene-8-ol — 0.288 1.154 —
7 22.727 β-Citronellol 0.499 0.547 0.572 0.681
8 23.166 β-Citral 39.031 38.699 35.026 38.697
9 23.710 Nerol 3.887 3.583 3.612 4.402
10 24.337 α-Citral 47.868 47.588 44.214 46.802
11 28.050 Geraniol acetate 0.602 0.361 0.525 1.610
12 28.980 β-Caryophyllen 0.296 0.339 0.324 0.357
13 29.482 α-Bergamotene 0.267 0.309 0.234 0.449
14 33.884 Selina-6-en-4-ol 0.115 0.200 0.189 0.313
Citral content 86.899 86.287 79.240 85.499
Figure 2 Chromatography of essential oil samples at different storage conditions: (a) initial; (b) after 1 week at 45; (c) after 1 month at 45; and (d) redistilled LEO.
Figure 2

Chromatography of essential oil samples at different storage conditions: (a) initial; (b) after 1 week at 45; (c) after 1 month at 45; and (d) redistilled LEO.

The compositional stability of LEO was further evaluated by performing GC-MS analysis of LEO samples stored for a week, for a month at 45°C, and the redistilled LEO sample. In comparison with citral contents of the initial LEO, the 1-month LEO sample stored at 45°C showed a moderately reduced percentage in α- and β-citral contents, reaching 44.214 and 35.026% respectively. This LEO sample also indicated the presence of three new compounds that had not been previously detected in the initial LEO, including 3,7-dimethyl-1,3,6-octatriene (0.395%), p-1,5-menthadien-8-ol (0.768%), and p-cymen-8-ol (1,154%). However, after being redistilled, the three compounds were no longer detected in the LEO. These results imply that the oxidation of citral occurred during storage due to exposure to heat and light and are consistent with the results of Weerawatanakorn et al. [23] and Ueno et al. [28], which found that the oxidation products of citral, including p-menthadien-8-ol, α,p-dimethylstyrene, p-cymene, p-methylacetophenone, and p-cresol, resulted in a loss of flavor in the LEO.

In general, exposure to both heat and light and extended preservation have led to the degradation of citral content and color quality. Some compounds such as p-menthadien-8-ol and p-cymene were generated in the process, necessitating further investigation in preserving valuable compounds in LEOs when it is being formulated in cosmetic products.

3.2 Color of the product base during formulation

3.2.1 Effects of base oil, emulsifier, and emulsification temperature

Incorporation of LEO into cosmetic products is usually realized through two main approaches: direct mixing and via the formation of emulsions. In the first investigation (effect of base oil on the product color), formulation conditions consisted of the following: LEO content, 3%; BHT, 1.5%; PEG-40, 15%; sodium benzoate, 0.6%; sodium lactate, 2%; DMDM-H, 0.6%; and emulsification temperature, 70°C. All formulated product bases showed an aroma almost identical with that of the LEOs after short and constant storage conditions (7 days at 45°C).

Table 3 shows the color changes of simulated product base formulated at different temperatures, base oils (PEG-400, paraffin oil, and none), and emulsifiers (Tween 80, Tween 20, PEG-40, and none). Generally, two samples that were devoid of base oils or emulsifiers showed the lowest ΔE values, of 0.96 and 0.87, respectively, indicating that base oils and emulsifiers play a key role in inducing color changes in the product base formulations with LEO [29,30,31]. Further examination of the formulated bases showed that the LEO layering phenomenon emerged in the sample incorporated with paraffin. After 7 days of preservation at 45°C, bases formulated with PEG-400 and paraffin exhibited moderate discoloration toward yellow and revealed instability. Overall, the direct mixing of LEO into product bases seemed to result in little change in color in comparison with the emulsion route. Therefore, direct mixing of LEO would be done in subsequent experiments.

Table 3

Color change of the washing product base after 7 days of storage at 45°C formulated at different base oils and emulsification conditions

Base oil Emulsification temperature (°C) Emulsifier ΔE
PEG-400 70 PEG-40 2.35
Paraffin oil 70 PEG-40 4.17
None 70 PEG-40 0.96
None Room PEG-40 1.54
None 50 PEG-40 1.58
None 60 PEG-40 1.13
None 70 PEG-40 1.26
None 80 PEG-40 1.75
None 90 PEG-40 1.83
None 60 Tween 80 1.98
None 60 Tween 20 4.31
None 60 PEG-40 1.73
None 60 None 0.87

3.2.2 Effects of formulation conditions on the product base color

Influence of other mixing conditions including pH (4–7), preservative (sodium lactate, sodium benzoate, and DMDM-H), antioxidant (BHT and BHA), and antioxidant/LEO ratio (0.5:1–2.5:1 w/w) on the product color was investigated in the next series of experiments. In the experiment where the pH value was varied, the color change was more pronounced at pH 7, while the products obtained at pH 4 and 5 displayed comparatively lower ΔE, of 2.49 and 2.22, respectively. This could be explained by the susceptibility to the decomposition of citral at high pH and its stability in acidic environments [14]. Apparently, at pH 5, the product color changed to a minimal degree and thus was selected as the condition for further investigation. Regarding color change with respect to the added preservatives, the base product incorporated with sodium benzoate displayed higher ΔE (1.75) when compared with those added with sodium lactate (0.76) or with DMDM-H (0.77). Therefore, DMDM-H and sodium lactate were used for further experiments (Table 4).

Table 4

Color change of the washing product base after 7 days of storage at 45°C formulated at different process conditions

pH value Preservatives Antioxidants Antioxidant/LEO ratio (w/w) ΔE
pH 4 Sodium benzoate BHT 1:1 2.49
Sodium lactate
DMDM-H
pH 5 Sodium benzoate BHT 1:1 2.22
Sodium lactate
DMDM-H
pH 6 Sodium benzoate BHT 1:1 2.56
Sodium lactate
DMDM-H
pH 7 Sodium benzoate BHT 1:1 2.67
Sodium lactate
DMDM-H
pH 5 Sodium benzoate BHT 1:1 0.76
pH 5 Sodium lactate BHT 1:1 1.75
pH 5 DMDM-H BHT 1:1 0.77
pH 5 Sodium benzoate BHT 1:1 1.94
DMDM-H
pH 5 Sodium benzoate BHA 1:1 2.93
DMDM-H
pH 5 Sodium benzoate BHT 0.5:1 0.85
DMDM-H
pH 5 Sodium benzoate BHT 1:1 0.84
DMDM-H
pH 5 Sodium benzoate BHT 1.5:1 1.60
DMDM-H
pH 5 Sodium benzoate BHT 2:1 3.75
DMDM-H
pH 5 Sodium benzoate BHT 2.5:1 5.94
DMDM-H

The antioxidants are important ingredients that assist in preventing and slowing down the oxidation process of other chemicals in the formulation. They reduce the effects of oxidation processes by binding to each other radical molecules, reducing their decomposition power [32]. In the following experiments, the product color was investigated with regard to the type of antioxidant and its content. Two common antioxidants, namely BHA and BHT, were incorporated into the base formulation. The sample incorporated with BHA and stored at 45°C demonstrated a marked color quality change and major layering in the bottle. On the contrary, samples incorporated with BHT showed minor ΔE fluctuations and less color degradation than BHA-containing samples. This is in part due to the higher thermal stability of BHT structure in comparison with BHA [33]. Thus, BHT was selected as the antioxidant in the following experiment. Regarding the change of product color with respect to the antioxidant/LEO ratio, a higher ratio seemed to be associates with a more yellowish product texture. However, the change was marginal and could not be visually discernible. To be specific, at BHT/ LEO ratios of 0.5:1 and 1:1, the ΔE values of the base product were 0.85 and 0.84, respectively. At higher BHT/ LEO ratios of 1.5:1, 2:1, and 2.5:1, the color change progress was more accelerated, reaching ΔE values of 1.6, 3.75, and 5.94, respectively. The observed color degradation is largely attributable to increased reactivity of the atmospheric oxygen atoms having an uneven number of electrons in the outer shell resulting in the chemical reactions occurring within the base. The addition of BHT could contribute to better color stability via a mechanism that is similar to that of vitamin E. To be specific, BHT could donate one hydrogen atom to the oxygen atoms with uneven electron distribution, forming hydroperoxide [33]. However, excessive addition of BHT may generate redundant electrons than that required for radical oxygen to stabilize, adversely affecting the product quality. From these results, the BHT/LEO ratio of either 0.5:1 or 1:1 was used in subsequent investigations.

3.3 Color and compositional changes of LEO in formulated body wash and shampoo products

The body wash and shampoo products incorporated with LEO were stored for a month at 45°C. Sensorial examination of the samples shows that, compared with the initial sample, the preserved products exhibit moderate color change to light yellow and the aroma quality was comparable with those before storing. The ΔE values of the body wash and shampoo after 1 month of storage were 1.13 and 0.85, respectively [34,35,36,37] (Figure 3).

Figure 3 Initial (1) and 1-month body wash product (2); initial (3) and 1-month shampoo product (4).
Figure 3

Initial (1) and 1-month body wash product (2); initial (3) and 1-month shampoo product (4).

To elaborate on the degradation of the chemical composition of LEO after storage, different LEO samples were analyzed by GC-MS. LEO was first recovered from the products through a hydrodistillation process. Table 5 summarizes the compositions and contents of the compounds in the bare LEO and LEO recovered from the product base, body wash, and shampoo under different storage times and temperatures. LEO isolated from the washing base, after 1 week and 1 month of storage, was devoid of decomposition products of citral such as 3,7-dimethyl-1,3,6-octatriene, p-1,5-menthadien-8-ol, and p-cymen-8-ol. Other compounds such as isogeranial, geraniol, cyclohexane, caryophyllene, α-bergamotene, butylated hydroxytoluene, caryophylene oxide, m-camphorene, and p-camphorene accounted for less than 1% of the total content in the LEO sample recovered from the product base. These results confirm the capability of the emulsification technique for preserving the composition of essential oils in the formulation of washing bases.

Table 5

Chemical compositions of bare LEO, LEO recovered from the base sample, shampoo, and body products

No RT (min) Compounds Lemongrass oil Base sample Shampoo Body wash
Initial 7 days 1 month 7 days 1 month Initial 1 month Initial 1 month
1 9.813 6-Methyl-5-hepten-2-one 0.805 1.149 1.314 2.575 1.598 1.243 1.572 0.866 1.026
2 9.928 β-Myrcene 5.656 6.025 10.86 7.097 9.932 5.498 8.597 4.256 4.543
3 12.427 3,7-Dimethyl-1,3,6-octatriene — — 0.395 — — — — — —
4 16.16 β-Linalool 0.754 0.664 0.805 1.818 0.775 0.959 0.808 0.839 0.788
5 18.942 Unknown name —     0.727 0.232 0.197 0.224 — 0.179
6 19.799 p-Mentha-1,5-dien-8-ol — — 0.768 — — — — — —
7 20.667 p-Cymene-8-ol — 0.288 1.154 — — — — — —
8 20.761 Isogeranial — — — 0.505 — 0.295 0.826 — 0.347
9 22.727 β-Citronellol 0.499 0.547 0.572 0.241 0.696 0.62 0.603 0.552 0.599
10 23.166 β-Citral 39.031 38.699 35.026 38.74 35.996 38.779 38.49 38.124 37.715
11 23.71 Nerol 3.887 3.583 3.612 2.601 4.306 4.294 4.249 3.831 4.277
12 23.773 Geraniol —     0.4 0.429 — — 0.543 0.424
13 24.337 α-Citral 47.868 47.588 44.214 41.60 42.459 45.893 44.15 47.686 47.596
14 28.05 Geraniol acetate 0.602 0.361 0.525 1.125 0.889 0.45 0.851 0.329 0.784
15 28.227 Cyclohexane — — — — 0.409 — 0.366 0.369 0.784
16 29.419 Caryophyllene — — — 0.598 — 0.412 0.621 — 0.655
17 29.482 α-Bergamotene 0.267 0.309 0.324 — 0.27 0.368 0.321 0.376 0.31
18 31.636 Butylated hydroxytoluene — — — — 0.198 — — 1.735 —
19 33.226 Caryophylene oxide — — — 0.125 — 0.123 0.091 — 0.089
20 33.884 Selina-6-en-4-ol 0.115 0.2 0.189 — 0.444 0.308 0.344 0.28 0.203
21 38.14 m-Camphorene — — — 0.289 0.266 0.314 — 0.245 0.121
22 38.433 p-Camphorene — — — 0.181 — 0.157 — — —
23 39.552 Unknown name — — — 0.094 — 0.079 — — —
Citral content (%) 86.899 86.287 79.24 80.34 78.455 84.672 82.64 85.81 85.311
% Citral decrease compared to initial −0.704 −8.814 −7.549 −9.717 −2.563 −4.903 −1.253 −1.827

Note: The values shown in bold in Table are due to (1) being the main ingredient in Lemon grass essential oil, (2) there is a marked variation in content under different storage conditions.

Regarding the citral content, the highest citral content was observed in the initial bare LEO and LEO after 7 days of storage at 45°C (86.89 and 86.28%, respectively), closely followed by citral content in LEO recovered from the body wash product (85.81 and 85.31% respectively). Further comparison of the citral content in various products to that of the Initial bare LEO revealed that the simulated product base stored after 1 month at 45°C exhibited the highest citral reduction (around 9.7%). Meanwhile, the corresponding values for the shampoo and body wash product were only 4.9 and 1.8%, respectively, suggesting that direct LEO incorporation into the base may result in shampoo and body products with minimized citral degradation. Some new ingredients in shampoo and body wash with concentrations below 1% included isogeranial, geraniol, cyclohexane, caryophyllene, caryophylene oxide, m-camphorene, and p-camphorene.

The decrease in citral content or other ingredients is due to the prolonged exposure to high temperatures during the LEO recovery process. The increase of β-myrcene content in the base and the shampoo sample may be attributable to its low molecular weight, making the compound to be more susceptible to evaporation and in turn more detectable during the GC-MS process. Alternatively, the increased β-myrcene content could be attributed to the rearrangement processes that transform surplus contents such as citral, geraniol, and citronella [38]. The emergence of substances such as geraniol, camphorene, and caryophylene oxide, which were previously absent in the bare LEO, could be explained by the inability of GC-MS to detect the constituents at very low concentrations.

4 Conclusion

In this study, we attempted the incorporation of LEO into the formulation of a washing product base, shampoo, and body wash product. The process was optimized to minimize color changes and citral degradation in the final products. The incorporation of LEO into two cosmetic products via direct mixing, rather than emulsion forming with base oils or emulsifiers, gave products better color stability. The best color stability of the product base could be achieved by using the following formulation conditions: pH, v5; preservatives, sodium lactate, and DMDM-H; antioxidant, BHT; LEO/BHT ratio, 0.5:1 or 1:1 (w/w); temperature, 70°C. The obtained shampoo and body wash also displayed negligible citral decomposition in comparison with the bare LEO.

Acknowledgements

Tran Thien Hien was funded by Vingroup Joint Stock Company and supported by the Domestic Master/ PhD Scholarship Programme of Vingroup Innovation Foundation (VINIF), Vingroup Big Data Institute (VINBIGDATA), code 2020.ThS.07.

  1. Funding information: This work was funded by Vingroup Joint Stock Company and supported by the Domestic Master/Ph.D. Scholarship Programme of Vingroup Innovation Foundation (VINIF), Vingroup Big Data Institute (VINBIGDATA).

  2. Author contributions: Thien Hien Tran, Cam Quyen Ngo Thi, Tri Nhut Pham, Quynh Anh Phan Nguyen, and Kim Ngan Tran Thi – investigation; Long Giang Bach and Le Thi Hong Nhan – supervision; Thien Hien Tran – writing – original draft.

  3. Conflict of interest: The authors declare no conflict of interest.

  4. Data availability statement: The data that support the findings of this study are available from the Nguyen Tat Thanh University but restrictions apply to the availability of these data, which were used under license for the current study, and so are not publicly available. Data are however available from the authors upon reasonable request and with permission of the Nguyen Tat Thanh University

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Received: 2021-03-22
Revised: 2021-05-26
Accepted: 2021-06-05
Published Online: 2021-07-13

© 2021 Thien Hien Tran et al., published by De Gruyter

This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.

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https://doi.org/10.1515/chem-2021-0066
Keywords for this article
Cymbopogon citratus; essential oils; shampoo; body wash; color stability; cosmetic formulation
Creative Commons
BY 4.0

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  36. Machine vision-based driving and feedback scheme for digital microfluidics system
  37. Study on the application of a steam-foam drive profile modification technology for heavy oil reservoir development
  38. Ni–Ru-containing mixed oxide-based composites as precursors for ethanol steam reforming catalysts: Effect of the synthesis methods on the structural and catalytic properties
  39. Preparation of composite soybean straw-based materials by LDHs modifying as a solid sorbent for removal of Pb(ii) from water samples
  40. Synthesis and spectral characterizations of vanadyl(ii) and chromium(iii) mixed ligand complexes containing metformin drug and glycine amino acid
  41. In vitro evaluation of lactic acid bacteria with probiotic activity isolated from local pickled leaf mustard from Wuwei in Anhui as substitutes for chemical synthetic additives
  42. Utilization and simulation of innovative new binuclear Co(ii), Ni(ii), Cu(ii), and Zn(ii) diimine Schiff base complexes in sterilization and coronavirus resistance (Covid-19)
  43. Phosphorylation of Pit-1 by cyclin-dependent kinase 5 at serine 126 is associated with cell proliferation and poor prognosis in prolactinomas
  44. Molecularly imprinted membrane for transport of urea, creatinine, and vitamin B12 as a hemodialysis candidate membrane
  45. Optimization of Murrayafoline A ethanol extraction process from the roots of Glycosmis stenocarpa, and evaluation of its Tumorigenesis inhibition activity on Hep-G2 cells
  46. Highly sensitive determination of α-lipoic acid in pharmaceuticals on a boron-doped diamond electrode
  47. Synthesis, chemo-informatics, and anticancer evaluation of fluorophenyl-isoxazole derivatives
  48. In vitro and in vivo investigation of polypharmacology of propolis extract as anticancer, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and chemical properties
  49. Topological indices of bipolar fuzzy incidence graph
  50. Preparation of Fe3O4@SiO2–ZnO catalyst and its catalytic synthesis of rosin glycol ester
  51. Construction of a new luminescent Cd(ii) compound for the detection of Fe3+ and treatment of Hepatitis B
  52. Investigation of bovine serum albumin aggregation upon exposure to silver(i) and copper(ii) metal ions using Zetasizer
  53. Discoloration of methylene blue at neutral pH by heterogeneous photo-Fenton-like reactions using crystalline and amorphous iron oxides
  54. Optimized extraction of polyphenols from leaves of Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis L.) grown in Lam Dong province, Vietnam, and evaluation of their antioxidant capacity
  55. Synthesis of novel thiourea-/urea-benzimidazole derivatives as anticancer agents
  56. Potency and selectivity indices of Myristica fragrans Houtt. mace chloroform extract against non-clinical and clinical human pathogens
  57. Simple modifications of nicotinic, isonicotinic, and 2,6-dichloroisonicotinic acids toward new weapons against plant diseases
  58. Synthesis, optical and structural characterisation of ZnS nanoparticles derived from Zn(ii) dithiocarbamate complexes
  59. Presence of short and cyclic peptides in Acacia and Ziziphus honeys may potentiate their medicinal values
  60. The role of vitamin D deficiency and elevated inflammatory biomarkers as risk factors for the progression of diabetic nephropathy in patients with type 2 diabetes mellitus
  61. Quantitative structure–activity relationship study on prolonged anticonvulsant activity of terpene derivatives in pentylenetetrazole test
  62. GADD45B induced the enhancing of cell viability and proliferation in radiotherapy and increased the radioresistance of HONE1 cells
  63. Cannabis sativa L. chemical compositions as potential plasmodium falciparum dihydrofolate reductase-thymidinesynthase enzyme inhibitors: An in silico study for drug development
  64. Dynamics of λ-cyhalothrin disappearance and expression of selected P450 genes in bees depending on the ambient temperature
  65. Identification of synthetic cannabinoid methyl 2-{[1-(cyclohexylmethyl)-1H-indol-3-yl] formamido}-3-methylbutanoate using modern mass spectrometry and nuclear magnetic resonance techniques
  66. Study on the speciation of arsenic in the genuine medicinal material honeysuckle
  67. Two Cu(ii)-based coordination polymers: Crystal structures and treatment activity on periodontitis
  68. Conversion of furfuryl alcohol to ethyl levulinate in the presence of mesoporous aluminosilicate catalyst
  69. Review Articles
  70. Hsien Wu and his major contributions to the chemical era of immunology
  71. Overview of the major classes of new psychoactive substances, psychoactive effects, analytical determination and conformational analysis of selected illegal drugs
  72. An overview of persistent organic pollutants along the coastal environment of Kuwait
  73. Mechanism underlying sevoflurane-induced protection in cerebral ischemia–reperfusion injury
  74. COVID-19 and SARS-CoV-2: Everything we know so far – A comprehensive review
  75. Challenge of diabetes mellitus and researchers’ contributions to its control
  76. Advances in the design and application of transition metal oxide-based supercapacitors
  77. Color and composition of beauty products formulated with lemongrass essential oil: Cosmetics formulation with lemongrass essential oil
  78. The structural chemistry of zinc(ii) and nickel(ii) dithiocarbamate complexes
  79. Bioprospecting for antituberculosis natural products – A review
  80. Recent progress in direct urea fuel cell
  81. Rapid Communications
  82. A comparative morphological study of titanium dioxide surface layer dental implants
  83. Changes in the antioxidative properties of honeys during their fermentation
  84. Erratum
  85. Erratum to “Corrosion study of copper in aqueous sulfuric acid solution in the presence of (2E,5E)-2,5-dibenzylidenecyclopentanone and (2E,5E)-bis[(4-dimethylamino)benzylidene]cyclopentanone: Experimental and theoretical study”
  86. Erratum to “Modified TDAE petroleum plasticiser”
  87. Corrigendum
  88. Corrigendum to “A nitric oxide-releasing prodrug promotes apoptosis in human renal carcinoma cells: Involvement of reactive oxygen species”
  89. Special Issue on 3rd IC3PE 2020
  90. Visible light-responsive photocatalyst of SnO2/rGO prepared using Pometia pinnata leaf extract
  91. Antihyperglycemic activity of Centella asiatica (L.) Urb. leaf ethanol extract SNEDDS in zebrafish (Danio rerio)
  92. Selection of oil extraction process from Chlorella species of microalgae by using multi-criteria decision analysis technique for biodiesel production
  93. Special Issue on the 14th Joint Conference of Chemistry (14JCC)
  94. Synthesis and in vitro cytotoxicity evaluation of isatin-pyrrole derivatives against HepG2 cell line
  95. CO2 gas separation using mixed matrix membranes based on polyethersulfone/MIL-100(Al)
  96. Effect of synthesis and activation methods on the character of CoMo/ultrastable Y-zeolite catalysts
  97. Special Issue on Electrochemical Amplified Sensors
  98. Enhancement of graphene oxide through β-cyclodextrin composite to sensitive analysis of an antidepressant: Sulpiride
  99. Investigation of the spectroelectrochemical behavior of quercetin isolated from Zanthoxylum bungeanum
  100. An electrochemical sensor for high sensitive determination of lysozyme based on the aptamer competition approach
  101. An improved non-enzymatic electrochemical sensor amplified with CuO nanostructures for sensitive determination of uric acid
  102. Special Issue on Applied Biochemistry and Biotechnology 2020
  103. Fast discrimination of avocado oil for different extracted methods using headspace-gas chromatography-ion mobility spectroscopy with PCA based on volatile organic compounds
  104. Effect of alkali bases on the synthesis of ZnO quantum dots
  105. Quality evaluation of Cabernet Sauvignon wines in different vintages by 1H nuclear magnetic resonance-based metabolomics
  106. Special Issue on the Joint Science Congress of Materials and Polymers (ISCMP 2019)
  107. Diatomaceous Earth: Characterization, thermal modification, and application
  108. Electrochemical determination of atenolol and propranolol using a carbon paste sensor modified with natural ilmenite
  109. Special Issue on the Conference of Energy, Fuels, Environment 2020
  110. Assessment of the mercury contamination of landfilled and recovered foundry waste – a case study
  111. Primary energy consumption in selected EU Countries compared to global trends
  112. Modified TDAE petroleum plasticiser
  113. Use of glycerol waste in lactic acid bacteria metabolism for the production of lactic acid: State of the art in Poland
  114. Topical Issue on Applications of Mathematics in Chemistry
  115. Theoretical study of energy, inertia and nullity of phenylene and anthracene
  116. Banhatti, revan and hyper-indices of silicon carbide Si2C3-III[n,m]
  117. Topical Issue on Agriculture
  118. Occurrence of mycotoxins in selected agricultural and commercial products available in eastern Poland
  119. Special Issue on Ethnobotanical, Phytochemical and Biological Investigation of Medicinal Plants
  120. Acute and repeated dose 60-day oral toxicity assessment of chemically characterized Berberis hispanica Boiss. and Reut in Wistar rats
  121. Phytochemical profile, in vitro antioxidant, and anti-protein denaturation activities of Curcuma longa L. rhizome and leaves
  122. Antiplasmodial potential of Eucalyptus obliqua leaf methanolic extract against Plasmodium vivax: An in vitro study
  123. Prunus padus L. bark as a functional promoting component in functional herbal infusions – cyclooxygenase-2 inhibitory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial effects
  124. Molecular and docking studies of tetramethoxy hydroxyflavone compound from Artemisia absinthium against carcinogens found in cigarette smoke
  125. Special Issue on the Joint Science Congress of Materials and Polymers (ISCMP 2020)
  126. Preparation of cypress (Cupressus sempervirens L.) essential oil loaded poly(lactic acid) nanofibers
  127. Influence of mica mineral on flame retardancy and mechanical properties of intumescent flame retardant polypropylene composites
  128. Production and characterization of thermoplastic elastomer foams based on the styrene–ethylene–butylene–styrene (SEBS) rubber and thermoplastic material
  129. Special Issue on Applied Chemistry in Agriculture and Food Science
  130. Impact of essential oils on the development of pathogens of the Fusarium genus and germination parameters of selected crops
  131. Yield, volume, quality, and reduction of biotic stress influenced by titanium application in oilseed rape, winter wheat, and maize cultivations
  132. Influence of potato variety on polyphenol profile composition and glycoalcaloid contents of potato juice
  133. Carryover effect of direct-fed microbial supplementation and early weaning on the growth performance and carcass characteristics of growing Najdi lambs
  134. Special Issue on Applied Biochemistry and Biotechnology (ABB 2021)
  135. The electrochemical redox mechanism and antioxidant activity of polyphenolic compounds based on inlaid multi-walled carbon nanotubes-modified graphite electrode
  136. Study of an adsorption method for trace mercury based on Bacillus subtilis
  137. Special Issue on The 1st Malaysia International Conference on Nanotechnology & Catalysis (MICNC2021)
  138. Mitigating membrane biofouling in biofuel cell system – A review
  139. Mechanical properties of polymeric biomaterials: Modified ePTFE using gamma irradiation
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