Grade-C kenaf fiber (poor quality) as an alternative material for textile crafts

Fajar Ciptandi; Citra Puspitasari

doi:10.1515/opag-2022-0203

Artikel Open Access

Grade-C kenaf fiber (poor quality) as an alternative material for textile crafts

Fajar Ciptandi und Citra Puspitasari

Veröffentlicht/Copyright: 30. Mai 2023

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Abstract

This research focuses on the development of utilizing Grade-C kenaf fibers (poor quality) produced from plantations in Pesanggarahan village, Lamongan regency, Indonesia, to produce alternative textile materials for textile craft and textile products. High-quality kenaf fibers have been utilized in the automotive, pulp and paper, and geotextile industries, while low-quality kenaf fibers are considered less potential and have only been used as gunny sacks. This research was conducted through an exploration and experimental approach, dividing the process into four stages, namely: (1) scouring stage using standard degumming of cellulose fibers; (2) testing strength and elongation of fibers; (3) bleaching stage of fibers; and (4) textile exploration stage with design and craft approach to create yarn and fabric weaving and crochet techniques, and the results were quantitatively tested to identify their mechanical and physical properties. This is beneficial as a solution to add value to a material to produce material trends for the development of textile craft products.

Keywords: natural fibers; crafts; Grade-C kenaf; textiles; textile products

1 Introduction

Indonesia, with its tropical climate, is an ideal place for growing Kenaf (Hibiscus cannabinus L.) plants, which are annual species with an upright bush growth type and optimal growth ranging from 60–98 days of age. This plant is a fiber-producing species from the bark of its stem (bast fiber), which can contain fibers up to around 75% [1,2]. Kenaf stem, as shown in Figure 1, has three main parts, namely the outer stem bark (kenaf bark), inner stem bark (kenaf bast), and stem core (kenaf core), with a fiber diameter of around 100–150 μm [3,4].

Figure 1

(a) Kenaf stem showing bark, kenaf bast fiber, and core fiber; (b) Kenaf stem: bark, bast, and core fibers 10×; and (c) cross-section: bast and core 30× [5].

Physically, based on characteristic data, Kenaf fibers have similarities with other potential fiber plants, as shown in Table 1.

Table 1

Comparison of chemical properties of Hemp, Kenaf, and Abaca Fibers [6]

Characteristics, (%) weight	Hemp	Kenaf	Abaca
Ash content	7.97	2.69	2.42
Silicate content	7.87	—	0.03
Pectin content	2.51	1.13	7.30
Lignin	23.45	8.95	12.86
Holo-cellulose	65.85	85.37	78.18
Alpha-cellulose	41.90	40.28	53.01
Cellulose	76.2	65.7	70.2
Hemi-cellulose	14.60	—	21.8
Pentosan	12.29	22.58	16.45
Lignin + pectin	—	21.6	21.83
Solubility in 1% NaOH	35.85	16.61	21.87
Solubility in hot water	7.55	2.12	7.10

The distribution of kenaf plantations in Indonesia, based on data from the Sweetener and Fiber Crops Research Institute (2021), includes Java and Kalimantan, with a plantation area of 26,000 hectares (ha) at the beginning of the People’s Sack Fiber Intensification Program (ISKARA) in 1978/1979. In 2020, there were approximately 3,000 hectares (ha) left. The productivity of this program can reach around 90,000–60,000 tons of fiber per year, and for the production of gunny bags, the type of fiber that is used is Grade-C kenaf (low quality), which can reach about 30% of the total fiber produced. Meanwhile, high-quality fibers are prioritized for use by various industries, including pulp and paper, automotive for composite material fiber boards, and geotextiles [7,8].

Today, with the emergence of various types of plastic bag packaging that are much cheaper, the people’s demand for jute sacks has decreased. Most jute sack factories in Indonesia have also gone out of business, resulting in low utilization of Grade-C kenaf fiber [9]. The utilization of the fiber is not only limited to low quantities for application in various craft products, but it is also considered less optimal because the visual appearance of the products is still unattractive [10,11,12].

In this research, the Grade-C kenaf fiber used is a result of plantations in Pesanggarahan village, Laren district, Lamongan regency, which in 2022, according to data from the Indonesian Sweeteners and Fiber Crops Research Institute (2021), has the widest kenaf planting area in Indonesia, covering approximately 2150 hectares. All of the high-quality kenaf fiber produced by farmers in the area will be collected by a collector, namely PT. Global Agrotek Nusantara (PT. GAN), to be exported as raw materials for industry. However, for Grade-C kenaf fiber, if there are no buyers, it will be left to rot naturally, especially since many gunny bag factories have gone out of business and no longer produce gunny bags [13].

In general, the characteristics of kenaf fiber in terms of visual and tactile properties [14], as well as physical properties, are classified according to the Research Institute for Sweeteners and Fiber Crops (2001) as shown in Table 2.

Table 2

Classification and characteristics of kenaf textile fibers

No.	Fiber quality	Fiber picture	Visual and tactile properties	Mechanical properties
No.	Fiber quality	Fiber picture	Visual and tactile properties	Strength (g/tex)	Elongation (%)
1	Grade-A (Excellent Kenaf Quality)		Soft, shiny, clean from gum, easily decomposable, brilliant white to yellowish color, and the fibers feel clean from dust and dirt when touched	30–36	7.08
2	Grade-B (Good Kenaf Quality)		The fiber has a fairly good softness and shine, still contains gum so that the fibers do not open and decompose well, the yellowish white color is not bright, and when touched the fibers feel dusty	19–26	6.10
3	Grade-C (Proof Kenaf Quality)		Rough, stiff, tangled, brittle, with unprocessed bark left during retting, and the fibers are difficult to open and decompose. The fiber color tends to be dull and dark brown, and when touched, it leaves sand	10–15	2

The cause of the occurrence of Grade-C kenaf fibers is a failure during the retting process, which aims to separate the bark containing fibers from the core of the stem containing wood material [15,16]. The kenaf plantation farmers in Pesanggahan Village still practice conventional retting process, which involves soaking the kenaf stalks, still covered in bark, in a soaking pond with a depth of approximately 100 cm, with flowing water to facilitate the separation of fiber cells due to microbiological processes caused by bacteria [17]. The average soaking time required for this fiber is around 14–20 days [18].

From these issues, there is a need to increase the value of Grade-C kenaf fibers to produce alternative textile sheets using a design and craft approach as an initial step in producing innovative textile craft products that are oriented toward economic, cultural, and environmental aspects.

2 Research method

This research used Grade-C (poor quality) kenaf plant fibers (H. cannabinus L.) with an experimental methodology through four stages of standard fiber-to-fabric process [19,20], which include: (1) scouring stage; (2) fiber strength and elongation testing stage; (3) fiber bleaching stage; and (4) textile design exploration and quantitative testing to determine fabric construction and characteristics.

2.1 Fiber scouring process

Scouring process is carried out as a preparation stage to clean the fibers from natural dirt and external dirt that may interfere with the subsequent process [21,22]. In this research, the scouring process was applied using standard degumming of cellulose fibers as shown in Table 3.

Table 3

Factorial Design for scouring the fiber with degumming process

No.	Stages of process	Temperature (°C)	Water volume (ml)	Amount of fiber (g)	Concentration of HCL (%)	HCL volume (ml)	NaOCl volume (ml)	CH₃COOH volume (ml)	Teepol volume (ml)	Time (min)
1	Initial fiber soaking	Room temperature	100	50	70	75	—	—	—	90
2	Fiber cooking	60	100	50	—	—	100	—	2	30, 60
3	Final fiber soaking	Room temperature	100	50	—	—	—	2	—	15

2.2 Testing of fiber strength and elongation

The strength and elongation testing of the fibers were carried out based on SNI 08-0269-1986 standard at the Technical Design Laboratory of the Textile Research and Development Center in Bandung using Automatic Tenso Lab 5000 Strength Tester, which was applied to the Grade-C kenaf fibers after scouring degumming with a variable of the number of fibers per bundle, including: 5, 10, 15, 20, and 25.

The results of the mechanical strength testing of the fibers were analyzed based on standard criteria for tenacity (grams/tex), as follows: >29 (very strong); 26–28 (strong); 23–25 (moderate); 20–22 (weak); and 17–19 (very weak). Meanwhile, the mechanical property of fiber elongation was analyzed by measuring against the standard elongation of at least 10% [23], which is considered good.

2.3 Fiber bleaching process

Bleaching is necessary because Grade-C kenaf fibers have a visually dark and unattractive appearance; therefore, bleaching is carried out on several fiber samples to make them brighter and improve the ability of Grade-C kenaf fibers to absorb dyes [24,25]. This process is following the factorial design specified in Table 4.

Table 4

Factorial design for fiber bleaching

Temperature (°C)	Water volume (ml)	Fiber amount (g)	H₂O₂ volume (ml)	Na₂SiO₃ volume (ml)	Teepol volume (cc)	Time (min)
60	100	50	5	5	2	30

2.4 Textile design exploration

The exploration stage of textile design was conducted in two processes, as follows:

Fiber spinning was carried out using two processes: (1) handspun filament using a simple manual handspinning tool [26,27] and (2) cottoning of fibers using an opener fiber machine [28,29], followed by yarn spinning using foot power spinning [30]. The resulted yarns were quantitatively tested to determine their size and mechanical properties.
Designing various alternative textile structure designs that are suitable for the characteristics of kenaf fiber yarn through craft techniques such as weaving and crochet [31,32]. The results of textile samples were quantitatively tested to identify their physical properties.

3 Results and discussion

3.1 The result of strength and elongation testing of fibers

The results of strength and elongation testing of Grade-C kenaf fibers after scouring degumming process for cellulose fibers according to factorial design based on Table 3 are presented in Table 5.

Table 5

The result of the strength and elongation testing fibers after scouring degumming

Fiber strands per bundle	Cooking time (min)	Strength (g/tex)	Elongation (%)
5	30	6.5	1.6
5	60	9.1	2.2
10	30	10.9	2.1
10	60	6.5	1.5
15	30	5.1	2.4
15	60	13.6	2.6
20	30	7.6	2.0
20	60	4.3	1.7
25	30	10.0	2.6
25	60	7.4	2.5
Average		8.1	2.12

Based on Table 5, it can be observed that the average strength of fibers per bundle with cooking times of 30 and 60 min, as per the standard criteria of tenacity (g/tex), is recorded at 8.1, which indicates a very weak level. Furthermore, the differences in the variables of fiber per bundles quantity and cooking time do not show consistent patterns of relationship. Similarly, the elongation testing results show that the average value is 2.12%, indicating that it is far below the minimum threshold of 10%. The variation in fiber per bundle quantity and cooking time also does not exhibit consistent patterns of relationship in terms of elongation. Overall, based on the testing results, it can be concluded that there is no consistent pattern of relationship between the number of fibers per bundle and cooking time. Therefore, it can be inferred that Grade-C kenaf fibers have very poor quality, falling below the standard requirements for textile products.

Based on the tested condition of the fibers, it serves as the basis for further consideration in the next experimental stage. It is found that Grade-C kenaf fibers do not meet the requirements for standard mechanical spinning process; therefore, there is a need to approach it manually using handspun technique in a craft-based manner for yarn spinning exploration.

3.2 The result of exploration on textile design structure

The textile exploration stage, in general, is the fundamental process of textiles that starts from spinning to the creation of fabric sheets [33]. In this research, it is carried out by considering the results from the exploration stage as shown in Table 5 with the condition of very poor textile fiber, so the approach was chosen with craft techniques to create alternative materials for handicraft products. Craft techniques focus on mastering hand skills assisted by simple tools, so that in the process of creating yarn, it is fully controlled and managed manually in a conventional way [34].

3.2.1 The result of yarn spinning exploration

Exploration of kenaf Grade-C fibers resulted in several variations in textile yarns, taking into consideration the outcomes of scouring, bleaching, and cottoning processes, as well as the mechanical properties of the textile yarns, which were concluded to be very poor. The yarn spinning exploration process was done manually using handspun techniques. This technique utilizes a spinning wheel operated by hand to draw out the fibers into long yarn strands [34]. The advantage of this technique is that it is manually controlled using human hand power, allowing for control even when the fiber conditions are not homogeneous. The results of yarn spinning exploration can be observed from visual and tactile characteristics as shown in Table 6, and the testing results of yarn mechanical properties (strength, elongation, and yarn count) can be seen in Table 7.

Table 6

Variations in yarn design as observed visually and tactilely

Yarn number	Scouring	Bleaching	Cottoning	Notes
1.	N	N	Y	The blackish-brown yarn color is uneven, the texture is coarse, and the diameter is not uniform
2.	Y	N	N	The light brown yarn has uneven color, dull appearance, fuzzy texture, rough feel, and an uneven diameter
3.	Y	Y	N	The bright white yarn has a shine, rough texture, and thin diameter that is not uniform
4.	Y	Y	N	The white yarn has a dull color, rough texture, fuzzy, and uneven diameter
5.	Y	N	Y	The color of the brown yarn is dull and tends to be uniform, with fine fuzz, rough texture, and an uneven
6.	Y	Y	Y	The white yarn has a dull color, coarse texture, fuzziness, and an uneven diameter

Table 7

Testing results of mechanical properties of yarn variations

Testing types	Testing methods	Test results of yarns
Testing types	Testing methods	Yarn 1	Yarn 2	Yarn 3	Yarn 4	Yarn 5	Yarn 6
Yarn number (tex)	SNI ISO 2060: 2010	320.75	2305.31	258.03	912.62	391.71	1559.39
Strength (gram/tex)	SNI 7650-2010 _MOD ISO 2062:1993	0.76	1.7	4.17	3.35	0.88	0.58
Elongation (%)	SNI 7650-2010 _MOD ISO 2062:1993	3.89	11.93	2.39	4.45	6.49	12.44

Qualitative characteristics of yarn as observed in visual and tactile aspects, as shown in Table 6, indicate the potential of processing kenaf Grade-C fibers into yarns with fancy yarn characteristics, which serve as decorative elements to enhance aesthetic aspects. Meanwhile, quantitative testing results to measure the mechanical properties of yarns in Table 7 showed that the strength of yarn decreased compared to the fiber strands (Table 5). This is influenced due by some reasons as follows:

During fiber testing, it is conditioned that the tested fibers should be in the form of long continuous filaments bundled together, resulting in a more even distribution. However, during yarn spinning, many of these filament fibers are broken, spliced, and then combined again in the process of spinning the yarn.
The yarn that has undergone prior retting process has transformed the kenaf fibers from long continuous filaments into short staple fibers. This condition significantly affects its tensile strength.
Point 2 can also serve as an explanation for the lower strength of yarns that have undergone retting process beforehand, specifically yarns with numbers 1, 5, and 6, when compared to other yarns that are spun in filament form.

Meanwhile, the results of yarn elongation tests showed no specific patterns that could explain why yarns that have undergone experimental processes of scouring, bleaching, and retting caused their elongation properties to be different from the others.

3.2.2 Results of textile design exploration

Textile design exploration was conducted using two approaches of textile handicraft techniques: (1) hand weaving non-machine and (2) crochet. These two techniques were chosen based on their popularity and mastery among textile craft artisans in Indonesia, which offers potential for future implementation in the handicraft industry [35,36,37,38]. In addition, the craft technique supports the optimization of fibers by transforming them into alternative textile materials, due to their poor quality, which cannot be used as clothing textiles but rather as decorative textiles. Several variations in textile designs using the weaving technique can be found in the following Table 8 and various textile design variations using crochet technique can be seen in Table 9. Subsequently, the produced fabrics were quantitatively tested to determine their physical properties, as shown in Table 10.

Table 8

Visual and tactile variations of woven textile designs

Textile number	Yarn number	Weave structure pattern*	Notes
1a	4	Warp and weft number 4	The off-white fabric has an even color, the texture feels quite strong when touched, creates geometric patterns with a monotonous pattern, and tends to be stiff
2a	3	Warp and weft number 3	The off-white fabric has an even color, has a shine, the texture feels smooth, although there is still a slight hairiness that can be felt, the fabric is plain without any pattern, thin, and tends to be stiff
3a	4, 6	Warp number 6; weft number 4	The color of the off white fabric, the texture weave feels very rough and furry when touched, creating abstract and unpredictable patterns, the fabric tends to be thick and stiff
4a	1, 2, 6	Warp number 1; weft numbers 2 and 6	The color of the fabric is a combination of white and brown, the texture feels rough and hairy when touched, creating irregular and unpredictable lines pattern, the fabric tends to be thick and stiff
5a	5	Warp and weft number 5	The color of the fabric is even dull brown, with a rough and hairy texture when touched. The fabric is plain without any patterns but has an imperfect effect on the surface and tends to be stiff

The main principle of weave structure pattern is that a woven fabric can be formed when two yarns are interlaced and knotted with each other, namely: (1) warp, which is the yarns that runs vertically in relation to the fabric’s direction, and (2) weft, which is the yarns that runs horizontally in relation to the fabric’s direction [39,40].

Table 9

Visual and tactile variations of crochet textile designs

Textile number	Yarn number	Notes
1b	3	The off-white fabric has an even color and still has a shine. The texture can be strongly felt and there are still fine hairs that can be felt. The yarn weave is very loose and it has an imperfect decorative geometric pattern. The fabric is also very stretchy
2b	4	The off-white fabric has an even color, a dull appearance, and a strong textured felt when touched and still has a fine fuzziness that can be felt. The yarns are loosely woven, it has an imperfect geometric decorative pattern, and the fabric tends to stretch
3b	6	The off-white fabric has an even color, a dull appearance, a texture that feels softly fuzzy when touched, and tight yarn weaves, features imperfect decorative geometric patterns, and tends to be stiff
4b	5	The brown fabric has an even color, a dull appearance, and a texture that feels strong and very fuzzy, loose yarn weaves, features imperfect decorative geometric patterns, and tends to be stretchy
5b	1, 2, 4	The fabric combines off-white and brown colors (especially in the brown parts, the color appears uneven), has a dull appearance, a texture that feels strong and fuzzy, and loose yarn weaves, features imperfect decorative geometric patterns, and tends to be stretchy
6b	3, 5	The fabric combines off-white and brown colors, has a dull appearance, a texture that feels strong and very fuzzy when touched, and loose yarn weaves, features imperfect decorative geometric patterns, and tends to be stretchy

Table 10

Physical properties testing of textile designs

Testing types	Testing methods	Test results of the fabric
Testing types	Testing methods	1a	2a	3a	4a	5a	1b	2b	3b	4b	5b	6b
Fabric thickness (mm)	SNI ISO 5084: 2010	2.15	0.64	3.10	2.23	1.43	2.42	4.64	4.00	5.94	4.88	4.17
Fabric weight/m² (g)	SNI ISO 3801:2010	784.2	222.9	791.6	701.2	489.5	293.4	664.13	820.97	1579.73	879.43	935.97
Warp density of the fabric (hl/inchi)	SNI ISO 7211-2:2010	28.0	22.0	31.0	6.0	31.0	—	—	—	—	—	—
Weft density of the fabric (hl/inchi)	SNI ISO 7211-2:2010	14.5	41.0	10.0	13.5	22.5	—	—	—	—	—	—

The quality of textile sheets produced from Grade-C kenaf fibers through an exploration process using handloom weaving non-machine and crochet techniques is qualitatively measured based on the added value in terms of visual aesthetics of the fabric. The created fabrics demonstrate potential for further exploration to produce various aesthetic variations such as texture, shape, color, composition, pattern, and uniqueness (resulted from imperfection factors) formed from the combination of fiber characteristics and the chosen craft technique.

Physical properties testing of textiles is limited only to understanding the profile and characteristics of the fabric based on fabric construction criteria, without further analysis against standard fabric values for specific product manufacturing purposes, such as garments, fashion accessories (bags or shoes), geotextiles, interiors (carpets), and children’s products. This is due to the small size of the textile sample, which does not meet the requirements for testing based on ISO/SNI standards. Based on the available sample conditions, the physical properties testing data that can be performed includes thickness, grammage, and fabric density. For woven fabrics (fabric numbers 1a–5a), they meet the requirements for testing to obtain the full profile and characteristics of the fabric. Meanwhile, for crochet fabrics (fabric numbers 1b–6b), fabric density testing cannot be performed due to their construction, which consists of interconnected knots that are not static and tend to move easily, making it difficult to calculate consistent numerical values.

4 Conclusions and recommendations

The experimental process conducted on kenaf Grade-C fibers can be summarized as follows:

The exploration of per bundle filament fibers through the scouring and bleaching process, using standard cellulose fiber recipes, resulted in visually and tactically cleaner fibers that did not leave fine dirt when touched and appeared bright white in color. However, in terms of mechanical properties, it was found that the fiber strength based on the tenacity criteria (grams/tex) was only 8.1 (very weak), and the elongation test showed an average value of 2.12%, which is below the ideal minimum of 10%. There was no consistent pattern observed in the variables of per bundle fiber quantity and cooking time that affected the quality improvement of the fibers. Based on these conditions, it was concluded that the kenaf Grade-C fibers did not meet the ideal minimum requirements for standard mechanical processing into yarn, and therefore, the fibers were processed into yarn manually using a handspun approach, which involves hand-powered techniques.
The results of yarn spinning exploration showed the visual superiority of the yarn, which exhibited fancy/decorative characteristics with a dominant added value attributed to its uniqueness due to the non-uniformity in yarn diameter, texture, color, and tactility.
The results of mechanical property testing of the yarn showed that manual spinning process contributed to a decrease in yarn strength compared to the strength of individual fiber filaments. This was caused by two main factors, namely fiber breakage that was reconnected during the spinning process and also fiber stapling that transformed it from long fibers (filament) into short fibers (staple).
The production of fabric samples using textile techniques with a craft approach, namely weaving and crochet. The two techniques show visual superiority by providing added value in the form of uniqueness as artisanal fabrics, including texture, shape, color, composition, and patterns. This is able to cover up the shortcomings of fibers and yarns by turning their imperfections into distinctive characteristics.
Physical property testing of the fabric is only conducted to explain the profile and characteristics of the fabric based on fabric construction criteria, and no specific testing is conducted for specific purposes such as garments, fashion accessories (bags or shoes), geotextiles, interiors (carpets), and children’s products. This provides an opportunity for further research to consider sample production according to standard test sizes and conduct quantitative testing for specific textile end-uses in certain products.

Acknowledgments

The authors thank Standardization Division from Indonesian Center for Textile, and Textile Physics Evaluation Laboratory from Polytechnic STTT Bandung for support for textile laboratory facilities and suggestions on preparing the manuscript.

Funding information: The authors state no funding involved.
Author contributions: FC – conceptualization, methodology, supervision, investigation and resources, and writing (original draft and review & editing); CP – visualization.
Conflict of interest: The authors state no conflict of interest.
Data availability statement: The datasets generated during and/or analyzed during the current study are available from the corresponding author on reasonable request.

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Received: 2023-03-19

Revised: 2023-04-22

Accepted: 2023-04-26

Published Online: 2023-05-30

This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.

Artikel in diesem Heft

https://doi.org/10.1515/opag-2022-0203

Schlagwörter für diesen Artikel

natural fibers; crafts; Grade-C kenaf; textiles; textile products

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