Influences of Contact Force towards Dressing Contiguous Sense of Linen Clothing

Caiyuan Kuang; Cong Ye; Guolian Liu

doi:10.1515/phys-2019-0093

Article Open Access

Influences of Contact Force towards Dressing Contiguous Sense of Linen Clothing

Caiyuan Kuang , Cong Ye and Guolian Liu

Published/Copyright: December 31, 2019

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From the journal Open Physics Volume 17 Issue 1

Abstract

In this paper, the experimental paradigm of cognitive behaviors to study the cognitive activities in the contiguous sense cognition of the tested linen clothing is introduced. The experimental program is written with E-Prime 2.0, while the expression of experimental stimulus material is realized with the developed dressing contiguous sense measurement device, which output the senses of urtication, roughness and smoothness among the fabric contiguous sense. Changing the relative force for the contact between fabric and human skin, the dressing contiguous sense is tested in different contiguous force conditions. The result shows that, with the increase of relative contiguous force, the evaluation value for the sense of urtication is increase, the value for the roughness sense is also increase, but that for the smoothness sense is decrease.

Keywords: Dressing contiguous sense; Psychological cognition; Force; Linen clothing; Behavioristics

PACS: 07.10.Pz; 81.05.Lg; 89.20.-a

1 Introduction

During the process of dressing, the physiological features of human body, such as surface temperature of skin, humidity of skin surface, and sweating velocity variation at all times, which are easy to cause varieties of new stimulus. During this period, the motion status of human body will cause the constant slippage of fabric on skin, and is easy to cause new mechanical stimulus.

The sense of urtication arising from fabrics has been proven as one of the most discomforting contiguous senses [1]. The sense of roughness, also known as granular sense [2], refers to the sense experienced when skin contacts fabric surface, which is a kind of physiological and psychic combined reaction arising from the stimulation formed by the surface topography and texture features of the fabric. The sense of smoothness is used for representing the ability of skin deformation along with tangential motion between fabric and skin. When under high pressure or sweating condition, the actual contact area between fabric and human skin increases, and the tangential motion of fabric will cause deformation of skin.

Contiguous cool-warm sense refers to the judgment of cool and warm formed by the brain when clothing contacts with human skin, causes the increase or decrease of skin temperature at the contiguous part, and makes the skin temperature at the contiguous part different with that of other part because of the heat transfer between them caused by temperature difference [3].

Perception on cold and warm means the cognition instantly completed via cold receptor and warm receptor, which existing large difference in perception mechanism with other senses, such as urtication, roughness and smoothness. According to the previous research achievements on clothing comfort and cognitive psychology, the dressing contiguous senses discussed in this paper includes the sense of urtication, roughness and smoothness [4].

When human skin contacts with fabric of clothing, the surface hairiness causes mechanical stimulation and emerges the sense of urtication in the case of the fiber end of the surface hairiness of the fabric can resist the bending load greater than 0.75mN, and the stimulus of the fiber end meeting the requirement of density [5, 6].

By changing the contact force between fingers or human skin and the object surface, it has been proven in the studies of Sripati et al. that the sense of roughness may vary with the variation of force; the increase of contact force may cause the increase of the response strength of SAI receptor [7]. However, as far as fine surface is concerned, the roughness sense is not fully strengthened with the increase of contact force, because the receptor perceiving the fine surface cannot be changed. Meanwhile, as shown in the research results of Louw, when the contact force within the range of 0.4-4N, the difference of acting force applied by the different subjects on the contacted object surface is not vary the psychophysical threshold value of the sense of roughness [8]. Employing UST surface tester, Hu et al. [9] tested the sense of roughness on the fabric surface under different pressures, and found that the roughness sense on the fabric surface intensifies with the increase of contact pressure.

In this paper, the experimental paradigm of cognitive behaviors is introduced to study cognitive activities in the contiguous sense cognition of the tested linen clothing. The experimental program is written with E-Prime 2.0, while the expression of experimental stimulus material is realized with the developed dressing contiguous sense measurement device, which output the senses of urtication, roughness and smoothness. Changing the relative force for the contact between fabric and human skin, the dressing contiguous sense is tested in different contiguous force conditions to explore the influence of force towards dressing cognition sense.

2 Experiment methods

2.1 Subjects

In each set of experiments, 64 young female college students with relevant specialized knowledge are selected randomly as subjects, aged from 20 to 23 years. The reason to choose female undergraduate is that the study of Garnsworth [10] shows that females are much more sensitive than males. All the subjects are normal in vision or normal after correction, and are right hander. All the subjects are separately measured, and have not done any similar experiment.

Garnsworth, et al. firstly proposed utilizing forearm test method for the experiment, and discovered that arm skin shows excellent sensitiveness against external stimulus, such as mechanical stress, hairiness puncture and temperature irritation. Because the freedom degree of shoulder joints, elbow joints and wrist joints is high, and arms can also flexibly bend to conveniently accomplish the contact between fabric and skin during the experiment process. Furthermore, because only bared forearm is required for experiment, the selected subject is willing to participate in the experiment [10, 11]. Naylor, et al. also adopted forearm test method, and the experiment result further validated the scientific nature and reasonability of the method [12]. Hence, the forearm is selected as tested part in this paper.

2.2 Design of dressing contiguous sense measurement device

The developed device comprises the base, main control system, and three-freedom-degree driving installation fixed on the base, the measurement installation set on the driving installation, whose location can be adjusted in X, Y and Z coordinate space. Through the driving of the installation, the displacement with different speeds or forces can be realized, as shown in Figure 1.

Figure 1

The developed measurement device

The main control system adopts a 51 single chip micro-computer (open edition) integrated with A/ D converter.

The stepper motor is a two-phase four-wire stepper motor, which controls the mechanical movement of the screw rod at three directions of X, Y and Z. The measurement installation is connected to the screw rod of the driving installation on Y direction, and drives the rotation of the screw rod with the operation of the stepper motor, thus transforming rotation of the screw rod to the rectilinear motion of the measurement installation, so as to adjust moving distance, moving speed and acting force of the measurement installation relative to the body contact position.

The measurement installation comprises a measuring wheel, and the measuring heads equally set below the measuring wheel, which are equally distributed on a circle surrounding the center of the wheel, and a pressure sensor set on the surface below the measuring heads. The testing board could achieve intermittent rotation and the angle it rotated for each time was 360∘/n. Four testing heads were evenly distributed at the bottom of the testing board. The fabric is packed over the measuring heads, and the measuring wheel can realize an intermittent rotation with an angle of 90∘ for each time.

2.3 Design of force parameter

Essick [13] set different forces in the two groups of experiment respectively, as shown in Table 1. When Experiment 1 set the range of force contacting with velvet fabric as 0.19-0.73N, the result showed that the subjects had greater evaluation on the contiguous sense of the velvet fabric when contacting with relative smaller force. When Experiment 2 set the range of force contacting with the denim fabric as 0.64-0.92N, the result showed that greater force has significant influence on the contiguous sense evaluation of denim fabric.

Table 1

Stimulus conditions for experiment

	Experiment 1 Essick (2010)	Experiment 2 Essick (2010)	Essick (1999)
participants textured materials body sites	12 females, 11 males cosmetic brush, velvet, burlap, velcro dorsal forearm	10females, 10 males cupro, cotton interlock, terry toweling, denim forehead, dorsal forearm, hand, thigh, calf	10 females velvet, cotton, plastic mesh face(cheek), ventral forearm
force (N)	0.19 (small), 0.73(great)	0.46 (small), 0.92 (great)

In the absence of external force, the weight of clothing has certain stimulation to the human body, which is also the biggest stimulus. The female summer shirts are selected as objects, gram weighting about 250-350 per each piece of clothing, for which selecting the average value of 300g. Accordingly, G = mg = 0.3Kg * 10N/Kg = 3N

That is to say, the maximum force applied by each shirt on human body is 3N. During the process of dressing, the double shoulders of human body serve as the important supporting points of weight of the clothing, for which the force of each location is calculated as 1.5N, thus the maximum force for each action point is 1.5N. In order to fully explore the cognition law of dressing contiguous sense, the force for the contact between fabric and human skin is set as 0.1-1.5N.

Human skin receptor can accurately perceive the external tactile information. According to the theories of biomechanics and bioinformatics, the elasticity relation model for skin and subcutaneous tissues is as follow.

(1) F = F ∗ + b exp a λ − λ ∗ − b

Where, a, b denotes constant, F means stress, λ is extension ratio, F ^* and λ^* denotes reference value. Hypothesis, there is function relationship between tactile perception S and relative deformation of contact area of human skin (λ − 1).

(2) S = θ ( λ − 1 )

Where, θ is constant. According to Equation 1 and 2, equation 3 can be deduced.

(3) S = θ λ ∗ − 1 − θ a ln F ∗ + b + θ a ln ⁡ ( F + b )

The research results indicate that the subjects have generated corresponding psychological perception for tactile sense under the external stimulation. This psychological perception has interrelation with the degree difference of stimulation perceived. Therefore, when external stimulation conditions change, the minimum feeling difference able to be generated for subjects is referred to as just noticeable difference (JND) [14]. The core concept of Weber’s law is that the quantity of stimulation changes required for perceiving a minimum noticeable sense difference has certain function relationship with the quantity of stimulations applied during the process of external stimulation.

German psychologist Gustav Fechner further expounded the theory, and concluded the core concept of Fechner’s law: JND is the minimum noticeable stimulation, which can be used as the basic unit for the measurement of psychological variation. When external stimulation gradually intensifies, the stimulation variation required for the generation of JND is also increase correspondingly. This is mainly because when the physical variation constantly increases, the change of psychological value decreases gradually. It means that when the physical stimulation increases, much more mechanical stimulations requires under the same stimulation difference perceived by the subjects. Following mathematical theories, the opinion can be expressed as that the quantity of perception from subjects is the logarithm product of K value in the corresponding sensory system by the stimulation quantity, as shown in Figure 2.

Figure 2

The law of Gustav Fechner

As shown in Figure 2, as for the stimulation difference quantity, the difference between A and B is different with that between B and C, which yet causes the same psychological quantity. In mathematical linguistics: if the psychological stimulation increase amplitude conforms to arithmetic progression, then the stimulation energy increase amplification can be calculated in geometrical progression. That is to say, the psychological perception of the subjects has logarithmic function relationship with the mechanical stimulation strength.

Considering the nonlinear stimulation applied by the force on human body receptor when the female summer shirt contact with human skin during the process of dressing, and combining the meaning of Figure 2, the force of point A, C is set as 0.1N, 1N respectively, then the force of point B can be calculated as follow.

N B = N A N C = 0.1 = 0.316 N

Therefore, the force ranges is set as large, medium and small in this paper. Specifically speaking, there are small force range (0.1-0.3N), medium force range (0.316-0.9N) and large force range (1-1.5N).

2.4 Experiment materials

8 kinds of linen fabrics popular in the market are selected as experiment materials, which are suitable for making female summer shirts. The warp and weft density of the fabrics is measured by using DW512A digital fabric count tester. The linear density of the warp and weft yarn and the areal density of fabrics are measured and calculated in weighting method with BSA224S electronic scale [15, 16, 17, 18]. The specification parameters of each fabric are shown in Table 2.

Table 2

Specification parameters of linen fabrics

No.	Fabric weave	Ingredient	Linear density of warp yarn	Linear density of weft yarn	Warp density	Weft density	Areal density
1#	Plain weave	L55/V45	29.53 tex×1	42.18 tex×1	59	52	156
2#	Plain weave	L100%	42.18 tex×1	42.18 tex×1	54	52	165
3#	Plain weave	L55/C45	28.12 tex×1	42.18 tex×1	54	50	156
4#	Plain weave	L55/V45	59.05 tex×1	59.05 tex×1	44	38	192
5#	Plain weave	L55/C45	53.68 tex×1	53.68 tex×1	51	47	195
6#	Plain weave	L100%	42.18 tex×1	42.18 tex×1	54	54	165
7#	Plain weave	L55/C45	39.37 tex×1	39.37 tex×1	54	52	165
8#	Plain weave	L55/V45	19.68 tex×2	42.18 tex×1	52	51	175

Unit: warp density, weft density (root/cm); areal density (g/m²)

2.5 Experiment program

When using the device, open the power switch of the main control system, and press the start button on the main control system, so as to transmit the order to the stepper motor through the stepper motor driver, and regulate the mechanical movement of the screw rod at three directions of X, Y, Z, and conduct the zero correction of the measuring wheel.

In the behavioral experiment mode, the expression program of the experimental paradigm, the expression of experimental stimulation materials, the random display of evaluation indexes, and the storage program of the evaluation results is designed firstly. The experiment program is shown in Figure 3. The experiment is conducted on computer, and its program is written with E-Prime 2.0.

Figure 3

A schematic illustration of the trial

After the evaluation indexes show, the measuring wheel loading fabric starts to contact human skin. When the contact is detected by the pressure sensor, the sensor will send the information to the main control system, which will send the order to control the stepper motor to run, and the fabric will start to have movement relative to the skin; when the proximity sensor detects the specified route mark, it will give an information feedback to the main control system, which will send an order to stop the measuring wheel. During this process, the subjects perceive the contiguous sense with the fabric, and makes quantization judgment. The continuous evaluation results are saved in the storage system.

After completion of one measurement, press the button on the main control system, then the measuring wheel will automatically rotate for 1/4 circle, and the measuring wheel will move to the initial position, i.e., zero position, where the next fabric will contact the skin.

The reaction data will be generated by the subjects through pressing buttons. If the subject feels that the fabric contiguous sense and the meaning of sensory word is same and the sense is quite strong, press button “/”; if the subject feels the sense is common, press button “X”; if the subject feels that the fabric contiguous sense and the meaning of sensory word is different, press button “Z”.

During the process of experiment, subjects could be given time to rest and everyone participated once in the same experiment to prevent memory mechanism disturbing subjects’ cognitive processes.

2.6 Evaluation scale

In order to conduct a quantitative evaluation on contiguous senses, three-point system is employed to assign each evaluation index. If the subject feels that the fabric contiguous sense and the meaning of sensory word is same and the sense is quite strong, the evaluation value will be 2 points; if the sense is quite common, the evaluation value will be 1 point; if the subject feels that the fabric contiguous sense is different from the meaning of sensory word, the evaluation value will be 0 point.

3 Results and discussion

In order to explore the influences of force variation on the dressing contiguous sense, the medium speed is selected in this paper, by changing the relative contiguous force of fabrics and human skin, the dressing contiguous senses under different force conditions are measured, and the obtained dressing contiguous sense is analyzed comparatively.

3.1 Comparative Analysis on V-medium-F-small and V-medium-F-large

The dressing contiguous senses of 8 kinds of linen fabrics under two kinds of different stimulus conditions are measured And the average value of dressing contiguous senses from different fabrics under different stimulus conditions are shown in Figure 4, Figure 5 and Figure 6.

Figure 4

Comparison of urtication sense

Figure 5

Comparison of roughness sense

Figure 6

Comparison of smoothness sense

As shown in Figure 4, with the increase of contiguous force between fabrics and human skin, the sense of urtication perceived by human body for each fabric is intensified. When the fabrics contact with human skin, the protuberant hairiness or hard fiber ends on the surface of fabrics energize together. When the fabric gets close to human skin, the force is increased, and the protuberant fibers start to bend and induce receptors to certain extent, which consequently increases the perception intensity of urtication sense. Therefore, with the increase of force, the urtication sensory intensity perceived by subject is much more than that under the slighter force stimulation.

The amplitude of the urtication sense of 3# fabric is less intensified along with the increase of force. This is mainly because 3# fabric is a kind of interweaved fabric, which warp is cotton yarn. With the increase of force, the quantity of cotton fiber hairiness on the surface of the fabric increases due to the mutual friction between fabric and human skin, reducing the perception intensity of the subject towards the urtication sense consequently.

The results of Figure 5 show that the roughness sense intensity perceived by human for each type of fabric is intensified with the increase of the contiguous force between fabric and human skin. Studies show that, when perceiving the roughness of fabrics under general circumstances, the force applied by fingers on the fabric should not exceed 1.0N. When the force for the contact between the fingertips and fabrics increases, the subject cognizes much more sense of roughness [19]. During the research on the surface with embossing texture, Blake et al. [20] found that SAI receptor is very sensitive to the variations of height and diameter of the point, which is super to RA receptor. Matching with the spatial variation pattern of peripheral nerve coding, variability of induction discharge space of SAI receptors is emerged to some degree and consequently impact on the perception of sense organ with the variation of contiguous force. Moreover, the induction discharge ratio of SAI receptor also intensifies with the increase of the local contact force applied on skin surface [21, 22].

There is more or less hairiness on the surface of linen fabric. When certain force is applied on fabric, the deformation of surface hairiness is appeared, because the subsidence of hairiness passivates the surface texture of linen fabric. In addition, the yarns at the intersection points of the fabric slips to some extent under the function of external force, increasing the gap among yarns, which increase the roughness sense intensity perceived by wearer.

Figure 6 indicates that, with the increase of contiguous force between fabrics and skin, the smoothness sense intensity perceived for each kind of fabric is reduced. This is consistent with the evaluation result on the sense of roughness, meeting the perception law when human skin contact with fabrics.

3.2 Comparative Analysis on V-medium-F-small, V-medium-F-medium and V-medium-F-large

As shown in Figure 4, Figure 5 and Figure 6, under the small and large force conditions, the dressing senses of urtication, roughness and smoothness present the consistent variation law, that is, with the increase of contiguous force, the evaluation value of the sense of urtication is increase, and that of roughness sense is also increase, but that of the smoothness sense is decrease. In order to further analyze the influences of the contiguous force variation between fabrics and human skin on the evaluation value of dressing contiguous sense, the experimental stimulation condition of V-medium-F-medium is introduced. Under the three experimental stimulation conditions of V-medium-F-small, V-medium-F-medium and V-medium-F-large, the variation of average value of dressing sense such as the sense of urtication, roughness and smoothness is shown in Figure 7, Figure 8 and Figure 9.

Figure 7

Comparison of urtication sense

Figure 8

Comparison of roughness sense

Figure 9

Comparison of smoothness sense

As shown in Figure 7, under the experimental stimulations of small, medium and large force, the perception intensity of urtication sense of the subjects to different fabrics is intensify with the increase of force, not following the linear variation law. It means that the intensification degree for the perception of urtication sense is not balanced with the non-linear increase of force.

The form of hairiness has impacts on the form of urtication during the process of puncture. When the fabric contacts with human skin, if the pressure is small, the supporting surface mainly provided by hairiness with certain hardness; when the pressure is large, the supporting surface is constituted by the fabric texture because of hairiness lodging. If hard hairiness is act as the contact or supporting surface, the contact forms include positive pressure puncture and tangential friction or scrapping.

Positive pressure puncture is divided into moving right towards skin from fiber end and bending end. For the former, the fibers is compressed and deformed, whose reaction force act on skin through the end. Because of the small area of contact point and greater pressure, the sense of puncture is strong. While for the latter, although skin moves right towards the principal axis of fibers, the pressure generated by pressing on skin is slight, and the urtication sense is slighter than that of the former because of the increased contact area from the bending of the fiber end. The vertical friction-type and bending friction-type fibers move tangentially towards skin and generate tangential stress on skin. Although the pressure generated is small, it generates vibration slippage and forms continuous scrapping and puncture actions within large area due to the rebound and recovery property of fibers. Its effect depends on the dimension of included angles between the fiber axle and motion direction. Therefore, with the increase of contiguous force between linen fabric and human skin, the overall urtication sensation value of the subjects to the different fabrics is also gradually intensified.

With the increase of force stimulation, the urtication sense of 3# fabric is intensifies relatively slow. This is mainly because 3# fabric is a kind of interweaved fabric, whose warp is cotton yarn. With the increase of force, the quantity of cotton fiber hairiness on the surface of the fabric is increased due to the friction between fabric and human skin, which reduce the perception intensity of urtication sense.

The results of Figure 8 indicates that under the experimental stimulation of small, medium and large force, the overall feeling intensity of the subjects for the roughness sense of different fabrics is increased with the increase of force, not following the linear variation law. With the non-linear increase of force, the increase degree for the perception of roughness sense is unbalanced.

There is more or less hairiness on the surface of linen fabric. When certain force is applied on fabric, the deformation of surface hairiness is appeared, because the subsidence of hairiness passivates the surface texture of linen fabric. The friction parameter on the surface of the fabric increases with the increase of force, so do the sense of roughness perceived by the subjects. In addition, the yarns at the intersection points of the fabric slips to some extent under the function of external force, increasing the gap among yarns, which increase the roughness sense intensity perceived by wearer consequently [23, 24, 25].

As shown in Figure 9, under the experimental stimulation of small, medium and large force, the overall feeling intensity of the subjects for the smoothness sense of different fabrics is decreased along with the increase of force, which yet not follows the linear variation law [26, 27, 28, 29]. This is consistent with the evaluation result on the roughness sense, meeting the perception law for the contact between human skin and fabrics.

4 Conclusions

In this paper, the experimental paradigm of cognitive behaviors is introduced to study cognitive activities in the contiguous sense cognition of the tested linen clothing. The expression of the experimental stimulus material is realized with the developed dressing contiguous sense measurement device. Changing the relative force for the contact between fabric and human skin, the dressing contiguous sense is tested. Some conclusions can be obtained as follow:

Employing behavioral experiment paradigm into dressing cognition psychology field, and combining it with the developed equipment, it guarantees the orderly proceeding of experiment stimulus sequence and the synchronism of experiment time.

When the acting velocity keeps constant, the variation laws of the perception intensity for the sense of urtication, roughness and smoothness of the subjects toward different fabrics are consistent under the three experiment conditions. That is to say, with the increase of relative contiguous force, the evaluation value for the sense intensity of urtication is increase, the value for roughness sense is also increase, but that for smoothness sense is decrease.

Through the analysis on the dressing contiguous sense of urtication, roughness and smoothness, the contiguous cognition laws of dressing contiguous perception under different velocity conditions is tested, which will provide scientific references for the establishment of psychological models of dressing contiguous sense information integration.

In the actual dressing process, the direction of the applied force is not fixed, and the applied force direction of 45 degrees should be focused on, which is of great research value. Future studies will focus on the influences of force direction on contact sensation evaluation.

Acknowledgement

This paper is sponsored by Science and Technology Guidance Projects of China National Textile and Apparel Council (2016060), Qing Lan Project and project of Zhejiang Sci-Tech University (Engineering Research Center of Clothing of Zhejiang Province) (No. 2018FZKF06).

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Received: 2019-10-18

Accepted: 2019-12-02

Published Online: 2019-12-31

This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.

Articles in the same Issue

https://doi.org/10.1515/phys-2019-0093

Keywords for this article

Dressing contiguous sense; Psychological cognition; Force; Linen clothing; Behavioristics

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