28 The hippie trail: Nepal, South Asia
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Emiline Smith
Abstract
Landlocked between Tibet and India, Nepal is a South Asian multi-ethnic, multilingual, and multi-cultural country famous for its Himalayan range and its rich cultural heritage. Hinduism and Buddhism are Nepal’s primary religions, which has resulted in centuries of sacred objects and architecture, including statues of deities, shrines, temples, monasteries, and other monuments (Bangdel, 1989). So abundant is Nepal’s sacred art and architecture that celebrated art historian Lain Singh Bangdel (1989) likened it to an enormous open-air museum. Legislation to protect this cultural heritage has been in place since 1956 (Yates & and Mackenzie, 2018). Yet Nepal’s sacred cultural objects have proven irresistible to foreign buyers: consequently, they have been looted continuously since the 1950s.
Cultural heritage; Flying into Nepal’s capital is a special experience: on approach, clouds hug the Himalayas, the ‘rooftop of the world’, and when they clear a city dotted with pointed temple roofs appears, nestled amid the mountains. This impressive panorama drew in the elderly North American elite when Nepal opened up to tourism in the 1950s: wealthy, retired travellers on post-war round-the-world tours who wanted to experience the many heritage sites of the Kathmandu Valley (Liechty 2005). It also attracted young people from Europe and North America in search for enlightenment and spiritual authenticity along the pan-Asian overland ‘hippie trail’ from the 1950s to 1970s (Gemie & Ireland 2017). Nepal’s capital Kathmandu became known as the perfect escapist hideout, as captured in Bob Seger’s 1975 song ‘Katmandu’: “I’m tired of looking at the TV news / I’m tired of driving hard and paying dues / I figure, baby, I’ve got nothing to lose / I’m tired of being blue / That’s why I’m going to Kathmandu
Abstract
Landlocked between Tibet and India, Nepal is a South Asian multi-ethnic, multilingual, and multi-cultural country famous for its Himalayan range and its rich cultural heritage. Hinduism and Buddhism are Nepal’s primary religions, which has resulted in centuries of sacred objects and architecture, including statues of deities, shrines, temples, monasteries, and other monuments (Bangdel, 1989). So abundant is Nepal’s sacred art and architecture that celebrated art historian Lain Singh Bangdel (1989) likened it to an enormous open-air museum. Legislation to protect this cultural heritage has been in place since 1956 (Yates & and Mackenzie, 2018). Yet Nepal’s sacred cultural objects have proven irresistible to foreign buyers: consequently, they have been looted continuously since the 1950s.
Cultural heritage; Flying into Nepal’s capital is a special experience: on approach, clouds hug the Himalayas, the ‘rooftop of the world’, and when they clear a city dotted with pointed temple roofs appears, nestled amid the mountains. This impressive panorama drew in the elderly North American elite when Nepal opened up to tourism in the 1950s: wealthy, retired travellers on post-war round-the-world tours who wanted to experience the many heritage sites of the Kathmandu Valley (Liechty 2005). It also attracted young people from Europe and North America in search for enlightenment and spiritual authenticity along the pan-Asian overland ‘hippie trail’ from the 1950s to 1970s (Gemie & Ireland 2017). Nepal’s capital Kathmandu became known as the perfect escapist hideout, as captured in Bob Seger’s 1975 song ‘Katmandu’: “I’m tired of looking at the TV news / I’m tired of driving hard and paying dues / I figure, baby, I’ve got nothing to lose / I’m tired of being blue / That’s why I’m going to Kathmandu
Chapters in this book
- Front Matter i
- Contents v
- List of figures x
- About the editors xi
- Acknowledgements xiii
- Introduction 1
- Cocaine Bear: Fun Mall, Lexington, Kentucky, USA 9
- Whitney Plantation: New Orleans, Louisiana, USA 14
- National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution: Washington, DC, USA 24
- From Newgate Prison to Tyburn Tree: the Old Bailey, London, UK 29
- Jack the Ripper tour: Whitechapel, London, UK 35
- The Alcatraz East Crime Museum: Pigeon Forge, Tennessee, USA 41
- The Museum of Death: Hollywood, Los Angeles, USA 50
- The Royal Armouries Museum: Leeds, UK 55
- The Black Dahlia tour: Los Angeles, California, USA 59
- The ‘Execution Dock’: Wapping, East London, UK 65
- Auschwitz: Oświęcim, Poland 71
- Jeju 4:3 memorial: Jeju Island, South Korea 80
- Museum Dr. Guislain: Ghent, Belgium 88
- Karosta Prison Hotel: Liepāja, Latvia 92
- The Clink prison-based restaurant: Brixton, London, UK 98
- The 9/11 memorial and museum: New York, New York, USA 104
- The Tuol Sleng Museum of Genocidal Crimes: Phnom Penh, Cambodia 107
- Choeung Ek killing field: Phnom Penh, Cambodia 116
- Blue lights in the Red Light District: Amsterdam, the Netherlands 122
- Trophy hunting: sub-Saharan Africa 128
- ‘The ugly side to the beautiful game’: Qatar 135
- Burning Man festival: Black Rock Desert, Nevada, USA 140
- Magaluf: Majorca 147
- ‘Holiday Hooters’: Hong Kong 153
- Scilla: Calabria, Italy 159
- The Kray twins tours: London, UK 165
- Backpacking in the outback: Uluru, Northern Territory, Australia 171
- The hippie trail: Nepal, South Asia 177
- The Museum of Confiscated Art: Brest, Belarus 182
- Steroid holidays: Sharm El Sheikh, Sinai Peninsula, Egypt 187
- The souks: Tunis, Tunisia 194
- Mezhyhirya Residence Museum: Novi Petrivtsi, Ukraine 200
- The great British seaside: various locations, UK 207
- The Biggie mural: Brooklyn, New York, USA 213
- The Rebus guided tour: Edinburgh, UK 217
- Volunteer tourism – ‘doing it for the ’gram’: Cambodia, Southeast Asia 223
- The staycation: home 230
- The ‘suicide forest’: Aokigahara, Japan 235
- Pitcairn Island: Pitcairn Islands, Pacific Ocean 245
- Favela tours: Rio de Janeiro, Brazil 251
- Skid Row walking tours: Los Angeles, California, USA 258
- The 2019–20 anti-extradition protests: Hong Kong 264
- The Maldives: Republic of Maldives, Indian Ocean 271
- Death Road: La Paz to Coroico, Bolivia 276
- Vulture brains and muthi markets: Johannesburg, South Africa 282
- Dark tourism, ecocide and Alpine ski resorts: the Alps, Europe 288
- Boho Zone: Middlesbrough, UK 293
- One Hyde Park: London, UK 299
- Amazon warehouse tours: Rugeley, UK or virtual tour 305
- Disney World: Orlando, Florida, USA 315
- Conclusion 322
- References 325
- Index 394
Chapters in this book
- Front Matter i
- Contents v
- List of figures x
- About the editors xi
- Acknowledgements xiii
- Introduction 1
- Cocaine Bear: Fun Mall, Lexington, Kentucky, USA 9
- Whitney Plantation: New Orleans, Louisiana, USA 14
- National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution: Washington, DC, USA 24
- From Newgate Prison to Tyburn Tree: the Old Bailey, London, UK 29
- Jack the Ripper tour: Whitechapel, London, UK 35
- The Alcatraz East Crime Museum: Pigeon Forge, Tennessee, USA 41
- The Museum of Death: Hollywood, Los Angeles, USA 50
- The Royal Armouries Museum: Leeds, UK 55
- The Black Dahlia tour: Los Angeles, California, USA 59
- The ‘Execution Dock’: Wapping, East London, UK 65
- Auschwitz: Oświęcim, Poland 71
- Jeju 4:3 memorial: Jeju Island, South Korea 80
- Museum Dr. Guislain: Ghent, Belgium 88
- Karosta Prison Hotel: Liepāja, Latvia 92
- The Clink prison-based restaurant: Brixton, London, UK 98
- The 9/11 memorial and museum: New York, New York, USA 104
- The Tuol Sleng Museum of Genocidal Crimes: Phnom Penh, Cambodia 107
- Choeung Ek killing field: Phnom Penh, Cambodia 116
- Blue lights in the Red Light District: Amsterdam, the Netherlands 122
- Trophy hunting: sub-Saharan Africa 128
- ‘The ugly side to the beautiful game’: Qatar 135
- Burning Man festival: Black Rock Desert, Nevada, USA 140
- Magaluf: Majorca 147
- ‘Holiday Hooters’: Hong Kong 153
- Scilla: Calabria, Italy 159
- The Kray twins tours: London, UK 165
- Backpacking in the outback: Uluru, Northern Territory, Australia 171
- The hippie trail: Nepal, South Asia 177
- The Museum of Confiscated Art: Brest, Belarus 182
- Steroid holidays: Sharm El Sheikh, Sinai Peninsula, Egypt 187
- The souks: Tunis, Tunisia 194
- Mezhyhirya Residence Museum: Novi Petrivtsi, Ukraine 200
- The great British seaside: various locations, UK 207
- The Biggie mural: Brooklyn, New York, USA 213
- The Rebus guided tour: Edinburgh, UK 217
- Volunteer tourism – ‘doing it for the ’gram’: Cambodia, Southeast Asia 223
- The staycation: home 230
- The ‘suicide forest’: Aokigahara, Japan 235
- Pitcairn Island: Pitcairn Islands, Pacific Ocean 245
- Favela tours: Rio de Janeiro, Brazil 251
- Skid Row walking tours: Los Angeles, California, USA 258
- The 2019–20 anti-extradition protests: Hong Kong 264
- The Maldives: Republic of Maldives, Indian Ocean 271
- Death Road: La Paz to Coroico, Bolivia 276
- Vulture brains and muthi markets: Johannesburg, South Africa 282
- Dark tourism, ecocide and Alpine ski resorts: the Alps, Europe 288
- Boho Zone: Middlesbrough, UK 293
- One Hyde Park: London, UK 299
- Amazon warehouse tours: Rugeley, UK or virtual tour 305
- Disney World: Orlando, Florida, USA 315
- Conclusion 322
- References 325
- Index 394