Startseite Toward Milder Personal Care Cleansing Products: Fast ex vivo Screening of Irritating Effects of Surfactants on Skin Using Raman Microscopy
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Toward Milder Personal Care Cleansing Products: Fast ex vivo Screening of Irritating Effects of Surfactants on Skin Using Raman Microscopy

  • Irina V. Chernyshova , Brajesh Jha , Aixing Fan , Hongwei Shen , Derek Doowon Kim und Ponisseril Somasundaran
Veröffentlicht/Copyright: 1. Oktober 2019
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Tenside Surfactants Detergents
Aus der Zeitschrift Tenside Surfactants Detergents Band 56 Heft 5

Abstract

We report a novel Raman technique that allows fast and reliable ex vivo assessment of the irritability of personal care cleansing products to the skin in terms of the molecular-level effects such as retention of water by corneocytes, change in the packing order and content of intercellular lipids, and the structure of keratin. We test this technique for the single surfactants (dodecyl glucoside, sodium dodecyl sulfate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, lauramidopropyl betaine) that are typically used in personal care, as well as on three types of commercial soap bars (“superfat”, “syndet”, and “combar”). We find that soaking of the skin for prolonged time in pure water can cause unfolding of keratin, which is commonly considered as a signature of “harshness” when dealing with the surfactant formulations. Moreover, molecular-level signatures of irritability of the test surfactants and soaps at brief (10 min) exposure times do not follow the trend expected from their critical micelle concentrations (CMC) and collagen swelling. In particular, dodecyl glucoside has positive impact on the barrier properties of the stratum corneum (SC) and apparent detergency properties (solubilizes lipids without affecting their packing order). We also find that two qualitatively different soap bars (“superfat” and “syndet”) are similarly mild under the conditions studied, while the “combar” soap has detergency properties. These results demonstrate that to improve methodology of predicting irritability of a surfactant-based formulation, we need to study more systematically the molecular-level responses of the SC to exposure.

Kurzfassung

Wir berichten über eine neuartige Raman-Technik, die eine schnelle und zuverlässige Ex-vivo-Beurteilung der Hautreizung durch Reinigungsprodukte für Körperpflege erlaubt, insbesondere im Hinblick auf die Auswirkungen auf molekularer Ebene wie Wassereinlagerungen durch Korneozyten, Änderungen der Packungsordnung und des Gehalt an interzellularen Lipiden und die Struktur des Keratins. Wir untersuchen diese Technik sowohl für die einzelnen Tenside (Dodecylglucosid, Natriumdodecylsulfat, Natriumcocoylglycinat, Lauramidopropylbetain), die typischerweise in der Körperpflege verwendet werden, als auch für drei Typen handelsüblicher Seifen („superfat“-, „syndet“- und „combar“-Seife). Wir stellen fest, dass das Einweichen der Haut über einen längeren Zeitraum in reinem Wasser zur Entfaltung des Keratins führen kann, was häufig beim Umgang mit Tensidformulierungen als Rauigkeitszeichen angesehen wird. Darüber hinaus folgen bei kurzen Einwirkungszeiten (10 Minuten) die Reizfähigkeit der Testtenside und Seifen auf der molekularen Ebene nicht dem Trend, der aufgrund ihrer kritischen Mizellenbildungskonzentration (CMC) und Kollagenquellung erwartet wird. Insbesondere hat Dodecylglucosid einen positiven Einfluss auf die Barriereeigenschaften des Stratum Corneum (SC) und die offensichtlichen Detergenzeigenschaften (Es löst Lipide auf, ohne ihre Packungsordnung zu beeinflussen). Wir stellen auch fest, dass zwei qualitativ unterschiedliche Seifenstücke („Superfett“ und „Syndet“) unter den untersuchten Bedingungen ähnlich mild sind, während die „Combar“-Seife waschaktive Eigenschaften aufweist. Diese Ergebnisse zeigen, dass wir die molekularen Antworten des SC auf die Exposition systematischer untersuchen müssen, um die Methodik zur Vorhersage der Reizfähigkeit von tensid-basierten Formulierungen zu verbessern.

Key words: Green surfactants; skin; mildness; irritability; amino-acid-based surfactants; sugar-based surfactants; Raman spectroscopy; formulation screening
Stichwörter: Grüne Tenside; Haut; Milde; Reizung; Tenside auf Aminosäurebasis; Tenside auf Zuckerbasis; Raman-Spektroskopie; Formulierungsscreening
∗Correspondence address, Dr. Irina V. Chernyshova, Department of Earth and Environmental Engineering, Columbia University, New York, 10027 NY, USA, E-Mail:

Irina Chernyshova is an Associate Research Scientist in the Department of Earth and Environmental Engineering, Columbia University. Her main area of interests includes the development of green surfactant and polymer formulations for various applications including personal care. She holds PhD in intermolecular interactions and spectroscopy from St. Petersburg State University, Russia. Before Columbia University, she was an Associate Professor in the Department of Medical Physics and Bioengineering, Peter the Great St. Petersburg Polytechnic University, Russia. She has authored a monograph on infrared spectroscopy and more than 50 papers in peer-reviewed journals.

Brajesh Jha has a Ph.D. in Surfactant Chemistry from the University of Pune in India. At present, he is a Senior Technical Associate at Colgate-Palmolive Global Technology Center (GTC) in Piscataway, New Jersey, USA. His research interests are surfactants, interfacial and colloidal science and their application in personal and home care industries. He is also a recipient of prestigious Shaw Mudge and Des Goddard awards for his contributions to emulsion and colloid science.

Aixing Fan is a Manager of Technology, Personal Care Early Research, at Colgate-Palmolive Global Technology Center (GTC) in Piscataway, New Jersey, USA. Before joining Colgate-Palmolive, she worked as a Staff Chemist at DuPont. She holds PhD in the field of Colloid and Surface Chemistry from Columbia University in the City of New York and Masters from Peking University.

Hongwei Shen is a Manager of Technology at Colgate Palmolive Company and leads a group of scientists focusing on the surfactant-based formulation research and innovation. He holds PhD in chemistry from McGill University with a focus on polymer chemistry. He has published numerous scientific papers in peer-reviewed journals and holds multiple patents.

Derek Kim is a R&D scientist with a demonstrated history of working with surfactants, proteins/enzymes, polymers, particles, colloidal systems and analytical techniques. He is a graduate of Columbia University and the Cooper Union in Earth & Environmental Engineering and Chemical Engineering, respectively, and is currently a R&D Research Scientist at Reckitt Benckiser (RB).

Ponisseril Somasundaran is the La von Duddleson Krumb Professor at Columbia University and Director of NSF/IUCRC Center for Particulate and Surfactant Systems. His main expertise includes colloid and interface science and surfactants. He is the author/editor of fifteen books and over 700 scientific publications and patents. He is a Fellow of the American Institute of Chemical Engineers and a member of the US National Academy of Engineering and the corresponding academies of China, India, Russia, the Balkans, and the Royal Society of Canada.

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Received: 2019-06-14
Accepted: 2019-07-13
Published Online: 2019-10-01
Published in Print: 2019-09-16

© 2019, Carl Hanser Publisher, Munich

Artikel in diesem Heft

  1. Contents/Inhalt
  2. Contents
  3. Microbial Synthesis
  4. Production of Non-Toxic Biosurfactant – Surfactin – Through Microbial Fermentation of Biomass Hydrolysates for Industrial and Environmental Applications
  5. Characterisation Novel Biosurfactants
  6. Structures and Properties of Sophorolipids in Dependence of Microbial Strain, Lipid Substrate and Post-Modification
  7. Personal Care/Cleansing
  8. Amino-Acid Surfactants in Personal Cleansing (Review)
  9. Toward Milder Personal Care Cleansing Products: Fast ex vivo Screening of Irritating Effects of Surfactants on Skin Using Raman Microscopy
  10. Textile Surface Modification
  11. Surface Characterization of Textiles for Optimization of Functional Polymeric Nano-Capsule Attachment
  12. Enhanced Oil Recovery and Oil-Spill Dispersants
  13. Pseudo-Gemini Biosurfactants with CO2 Switchability for Enhanced Oil Recovery (EOR)
  14. Hydrophilic-Lipophilic-Difference (HLD) Guided Formulation of Oil Spill Dispersants with Biobased Surfactants
  15. Mineral Processing
  16. Floatability of Chalcopyrite by Glycolipid Biosurfactants as Compared to Traditional Thiol Surfactants
  17. Antimicrobial Properties
  18. Stability of Emulsions and Nanoemulsions Stabilized with Biosurfactants, and their Antimicrobial Performance against Escherichia coli O157:H7 and Listeria monocytogenes
https://doi.org/10.3139/113.110637
Schlagwörter für diesen Artikel
Green surfactants; skin; mildness; irritability; amino-acid-based surfactants; sugar-based surfactants; Raman spectroscopy; formulation screening

Artikel in diesem Heft

  1. Contents/Inhalt
  2. Contents
  3. Microbial Synthesis
  4. Production of Non-Toxic Biosurfactant – Surfactin – Through Microbial Fermentation of Biomass Hydrolysates for Industrial and Environmental Applications
  5. Characterisation Novel Biosurfactants
  6. Structures and Properties of Sophorolipids in Dependence of Microbial Strain, Lipid Substrate and Post-Modification
  7. Personal Care/Cleansing
  8. Amino-Acid Surfactants in Personal Cleansing (Review)
  9. Toward Milder Personal Care Cleansing Products: Fast ex vivo Screening of Irritating Effects of Surfactants on Skin Using Raman Microscopy
  10. Textile Surface Modification
  11. Surface Characterization of Textiles for Optimization of Functional Polymeric Nano-Capsule Attachment
  12. Enhanced Oil Recovery and Oil-Spill Dispersants
  13. Pseudo-Gemini Biosurfactants with CO2 Switchability for Enhanced Oil Recovery (EOR)
  14. Hydrophilic-Lipophilic-Difference (HLD) Guided Formulation of Oil Spill Dispersants with Biobased Surfactants
  15. Mineral Processing
  16. Floatability of Chalcopyrite by Glycolipid Biosurfactants as Compared to Traditional Thiol Surfactants
  17. Antimicrobial Properties
  18. Stability of Emulsions and Nanoemulsions Stabilized with Biosurfactants, and their Antimicrobial Performance against Escherichia coli O157:H7 and Listeria monocytogenes
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