Band 9, Heft 3

Optimising the technical and economic requirements to obtain a yarn with the appropriate twist level for sustained yarn quality and usage is of paramount importance. This paper describes the concepts and development of a rule-based expert system to establish the optimum linkage between the yarn twist factor and end-use of a yarn and determine the appropriate twist for the particular yarn.

In this work, the open end splicer parameters as the compressed air (pressure, P and durations of tearing, Dt), the fibres feeding during splicing operation (1S10 and EII), and the recalling yarn codes (RI, RII and RIII) were investigated. In order to evaluate the contribution of the splicing conditions on the open end splice physicomechanical behaviour, we used the experimental Tagauchi design method. This kind of experimental design allows us, using simplification method, to reduce the amount of the experiments. To evaluate the splice appearance, the subjective (the experts notes) method and the objective (referring to a developed Thickness index value) one are compared. In our experimental field of interest, the results show that the feeding fibres parameter level increase gives the lowest Thickness index value which means good splice appearance. However, the compressed air remains the most important parameter because it represents the influential one on both the strength and the longitudinal characteristics of the spliced open-end spun-yarns (length of splice and the expert judgments).

The objective of this paper is to discuss effect of commingling parameter on characteristics of Glass/Polypropylene commingled hybrid yarns to get homogenous mix of matrix and reinforcement elements in the final yarn. A commingling machine developed to produce hybrid yarn using two techniques viz. mingling technique and hollow spindle wrapping technique using single machine is highlighted .The machine can run at speed upto 800 meters/min and for hybrid yarn it can go up to 200 meters/min. To study the effect of parameter three variable namely Air pressure, Overfeed and Take-up speed are take in to consideration and the Box-Behanken design is used for experimental setup. The hybrid yarn samples have been evaluated to investigate the influence of process variables the commingling characteristics of hybrid yarn viz. nip frequency; nip stability and nip regularity have also been studied. 'MINITAB' software is used for the analysis of test results. It was observed that effects of individual parameter as well as interaction effects are equally important in deciding final yarn quality. The structural analysis of hybrid yarn is done using SEM (Scanning electron microscope). To study the mixing behaviour of glass/polypropylene hybrid yarn three different methods have been used to prepare hybrid yarn viz. Friction spinning, hollow spindle wrapping, commingling. Its was clearly observed that commingled process gives better homogenous mixing of glass and polypropylene filaments compare to other two method. This yarn is used to make final laminate sample using hot press.

The great interest in fancy yarns area was noticed at the textile market all over the world as well as in science area. That interest may be the consequence of liberalization in trade with countries like China. Due to liberalization in fancy yarns sector trade between Europe and Asia, the main Asian producers of fancy yarns compete with each other to offer more and more sophisticated products. The production of fancy yarns has been differentiated and enriched in such scale that makes almost impossible to catalog and standardized all the produced types. However, certain activities has been taken up at The Technical University of Lodz with cooperation of the University of Gent to investigate the area from scientific point of view, mainly by tests based on fancy cotton yarns e.g. spiral, loop and bunch as well as fancy elastic yarns e.g. spiral, bunch and flame yarns. The aspects of fancy yarns implementation into fabrics will be considered as well as positioning those scientific activities at the European level with connection to the global policy. Therefore, the aim of this paper is bringing closer the matters concerning fancy cotton yarns and fancy elastic yarns from scientific point of view on a base of chosen examples carrying out a comparison of physical properties of those fancy yarns, the introduction of those yarns as wefts into fabrics. The aesthetic aspects and behaviour at wear of final products will be considered. The first experiment concerns the production, on the ring twisting frame, of three types of fancy cotton yarns, spiral, loop and bunch which were differentiated in respect of twist, linear density, the angel of lap of pegs by yarn on the slat of ring-twisting frame (the input only for spiral yarns) and the frequency of rocker's action in ringtwisting frame (the input only for bunch yarns). All obtained yarns were analysed in respect of real value of twist (t/m), linear density (tex), breaking force (cN/tex), elongation during breaking (%), air index (m/sec), bending rigidity (cN*cm) and width of hysteresis from bending rigidity test (cN*cm/cm). The fancy cotton fabrics were analysed in respect of mass surface (g/m2), friction-mass loss (g), piling, flexural rigidity (mg*cm), tearing (N), creasing, breaking force (cN/cm) and elongation while breaking. The second experiment concerns the production, on the hollow spindle, of three types of fancy elastic yarns, loop, bunch and flame yarns which were differentiated in respect of twist (t/m), linear density (tex), the value of stretch given to the elastic component (%) and preparation of the bobbin - precise and normal. All obtained yarns were analysed in respect of real value of twist (t/m), linear density (tex), breaking force (cN/tex), elongation during breaking (%), air index (m/sec). The fancy elastic fabrics were analysed in respect of mass surface, flexural rigidity (mg*cm), creasing, breaking force (cN/cm) and elongation while breaking (%) and dimensional stability. All the statistical analyses were carried out with usage of multiple regression module.

Sustainable water use in industry is the goal of AquaFit4Use, by a cross-sectorial, integrated approach. The overall objectives are: the development and implementation of new, reliable, cost-effective technologies, tools and methods for sustainable water supply, use and discharge in the main water consuming industries in order to significantly reduce water use, mitigate environmental impact and produce and apply water qualities in accordance with industrial own specifications (fit - for - use) from all possible sources, and contributing to a far-going closure of the water cycle in a economical, sustainable and safe way while improving their product quality and process stability.

The purpose of this work is to find out the performance of seams after successive treatments applied to fabric. Performance of seams is given by their load/elongation behaviour. In this study, woven fabrics are chosen to investigate the effect of their chemical and mechanical finishing process (desizing, scouring, bleaching, dyeing and sueding) on the behaviour of the seams. Three factors have been studied: Treatment, Density (number of stitches per centimeter) and seam direction (weft or warp direction). Two responses are measured: seam elongation at break and seam breaking force. The initial fabrics properties before stitched have an important impact on the behaviour of the seams. This work explains that it is more useful to study the yield point than the rupture point; because for the wear, the elastic phase (recovery) is more important than the plastic phase. Studying yield point of seams explains better the reality limit of use of stitched fabrics. The increase of the number of stitches per centimetre ameliorates the breaking resistance of seam, but not the elongation at break. However the density has small effects on the yield point.

The principal aim of this work is to study the effect of matter, types of launderings (stone wash, enzyme wash, mixed wash and rinse), special treatments applied during the manufacturing process of garment washing (brushing, sanding, resin-treatment, bleach-treatment, permanganate-spray and softening) and their succession on the fabric mechanical properties: Tear strength (T. S) and Breaking strength (B. S). The results show that all these treatments, applied to obtain more worn appearance and aged look for garment has decreased the mechanical properties. Moreover, the resin- treatment is the most aggressive for cloths in the set of the special treatments. In fact, whatever the following washing process is stone washing or mixed washing, the finishing resin-treatment destroys the matter and reduces a lot the mechanical resistance. Thus, we proved that in the case of washed denim fabric, it is advisable to avoid the line of succession of treatments containing the resintreatment and mixed washing process.