Sufi Lovers, Safavid Silks and Early Modern Identity

This book examines a group of sixteenth- and seventeenth-century figural silks depicting legendary lovers from the Khamsa (Quintet) of epic Persian poetry. Codified by Nizami Ganjavi in the twelfth century, the Khamsa gained popularity in the Persian-speaking realm through illustrated manuscripts produced for the elite, creating a template for illustrating climactic scenes in the love stories of “Layla and Majnun” and “Khusrau and Shirin” that appear on early modern silks. Attributed to Safavid Iran, the publication proposes that dress fashioned from these silks represented Sufi ideals based on the characters. Migration of weavers between Safavid and Mughal courts resulted in producing goods for a sophisticated and educated elite, demonstrating shared cultural values and potential reattribution. Through an examination of primary source materials, literary analysis of the original text, and close iconographical study of figural designs, the study presents original cross-disciplinary arguments about patronage, provenance, and the socio-cultural significance of wearing these silks.

Hedayat Munroe Nazanin :

Nazanin Hedayat Munroe is a textile and fashion historian specializing in luxury silks from the early modern Persianate world. She is currently Director of Textile Technology and Assistant Professor in Business and Technology of Fashion, NYC College of Technology - City University of New York.

The Winner of the 2024 R.L. Shep Memorial Book Award

''...book brings the highest standard of research and scholarship to a topic of significance to the field of global textile studies and presents its material in a manner that is a accesible and engaging for the public as well for textile scholars.''
- Textile Society of America, November 2024

''Sufi Lovers, Safavid Silks and Early Modern Identity brings a new perspective on links between textiles, painting, religion, and literature. […] Hedayat Munroe builds an excellent historical, religious, and artistic picture for the milieu of the material.''
- Amanda Phillips, 21: Inquiries into Art, History, and the Visual , Vol.2, 2024