Band 7, Heft 4

The yarns spun on the compact spinning system are characterized by higher tenacity, higher elongation at break, smaller mass irregularity measured at short segments, and significantly lower hairiness in comparison with yarns spun on the conventional ring spinning frame. For the Long Staple Egyptian cotton varieties, the breaking force or single yarn strength of the compact yarn (with a nominal linear density of 15tex spun from Long-Staple cottons) was 17.63% higher than the conventional ring spun yarn, while for the Extra-fine carded yarns spun from Extra-Long Staple varieties (it was around 7.0%). This means that, the compact spinning system is more useful for Long Staple cottons and coarse and medium counts than for the Extra Long Staple cottons and finer counts.

In weaving, a warp must withstand repeated stretching, caused by shedding and beat-up. It is also subjected to abrasion, which is mainly due to shedding and reed motion. The yarns are therefore sized. Two important reasons for applying sizes to spun warp yarns are to protect them breaking during weaving and to decrease their hairyness so that the tendency for adjacent warp yarns to entangle will be reduced. In this work, we investigated the weaving performance and physical properties of cotton yarn sized at high pressure squeezing. We studied the size penetration, film properties, and the yarn packing density in order to explain the performance of sized yarn.

In this paper, the formability of weft-knitted fabrics produced with glass filaments on an electronic flat knitting machine is experimentally investigated. A simple method used for the analysis of formability is proposed. Cutting patterns for different structures are given and the variation trends of the areas and fiber volume fractions are analyzed. The results show that due to their loop structures weft-knitted structures can easily be deformed to fit a hemisphere surface without the formation of wrinkling.

Human comfort perceptions in relation to textiles are influenced by tactile perceptions, moisture and thermal interactions. Studies in the thermal comfort of clothing have been done with instrumental techniques as well as with human subjects. There have also been many studies on influence of thermal comfort and sleep. This paper brings together some specific aspects of bedding textiles and their influence on thermal comfort and sleep.

In this paper, the effects of low temperature plasma (LTP) treatment on the dyeing properties of wool were studied. Wool fibres were treated with oxygen plasma and three types of dyeing systems that are commonly used for wool dyeing, namely: (i) acid dye, (ii) chrome dye and (iii) reactive dye; were used in the dyeing process. For acid dyeing, the dyeing rate of LTP-treated wool fibre was greatly increased, but the final dyeing exhaustion equilibrium did not show any significant change. For chrome dyeing, the dyeing rate of LTP-treated wool fibre was increased, but the final dyeing exhaustion equilibrium was increased only to a small extent. In addition, the rate of the afterchroming process was similar to the chrome dyeing process. In the case of reactive dyeing, the dyeing rate of LTP-treated wool fibre was greatly increased and also the final dyeing exhaustion equilibrium was increased significantly. As a result, it may be concluded that the LTP treatment could improve the dyeing behaviour of wool fibre under different dyeing systems.

Over the last 20 years there has been a dramatic technical development of machines and software in the production of knitted fashion garments. This development has made it possible to rationalise design and production of knitted garments so that today it is possible to make a knitted garment, almost ready made, directly in the knitting machine, with a minimum of processes, such as cutting and sewing. The objective of this paper is to explain and give examples of how this new knitting production technology could be implemented in a fast fashion logistic system. The method for this paper is an inductive approach based on a literature survey. The new technical achievements have not meant the great breakthrough that was expected. Why? Many companies moved their production to development countries where the costs ofproduction, mainly labour costs are lower than in western countries. Another reason is that it is not enough to invest in new machinery and then use the machines in the same production system as before. To gain the benefits of this technique the production processes in the company have to be changed and adapted to these new conditions. The lack of knowledge in supply chain design and a one-sided perspective on production costs, instead of a customer orientated one, is one explanation. This, in a business (fashion) where the demand is changing dayby- day and the short time to market is vital to a company’s ability to be competitive. This article describes the integral and complete garment knitting techniques and the advantages that they open up, both from a logistics and a technical point of view. An integral knitted whole garment technology, implemented and adjusted to the production and business system in a company, can reduce lead times dramatically and respond quickly to the rapidly changing fashion market.