Chapters in this book

1. Frontmatter i
2. Contents vii
3. Acknowledgments ix
4. Los Encuentros 1
5. Prologue 3
6. PART ONE. GUATEMALA CITY
7. Arrival 11
8. The Capital for Tourists 14
9. Walking around Town 21
10. Rainy Season in the Slums 24
11. The City Dump 27
12. Along the Railroad Tracks 29
13. A GAM Rally 32
14. Authority in Guatemala 34
15. Maquilas 37
16. El Churrasco 45
17. Ladino Attitudes 48
18. Soccer in Guatemala 50
19. Street Children 52
20. Buying a Scooter 56
21. Bureaucracy Revisited 62
22. The Post Office 65
23. "Fijase" 67
24. Religion 69
25. Restaurants 81
26. USAID 85
27. The Gringo Presence 96
28. PART TWO ROADS AND TEXTS
29. Antigua 109
30. Lake Atitlán 121
31. Chichicastenango 133
32. Utatlán 143
33. The Ixil Triangle 152
34. The Road to El Estor 175
35. The Oriente 180
36. The Last Road 197
37. Bibliography 207
38. Index 209