Chapters in this book

1. Frontmatter i
2. Contents ix
3. Map of Cuba (showing places visited) xii
4. Running Away from Home to Run toward Home 1
5. Part One: Blessings for the Dead
6. 1. Looking for Henry 39
7. 2. A Kaddish for the Jews Who Rest in Jewish Cemeteries in Cuba and for Raquel’s Mother Who Does Not 45
8. Part Two: Havana
9. 3. A Tour of Havana’s Synagogues 57
10. 4. The Kosher Butcher Shop 73
11. 5. The Shirt That Holds Sadness 76
12. 6. Los Prinstein 82
13. 7. In the Realm of Lost Things 88
14. 8. How to Pack Your Suitcase 94
15. 9. Enrique Bender’s Blue-Green Eyes Remind Me of My Grandfather 100
16. 10. The Dancing Turk 108
17. 11. Monday Morning in Luyanó 112
18. 12. Danayda Levy’s School Report 116
19. 13. May Day with a Jewish Communist 120
20. 14. The Whispering Writer 126
21. 15. The Three Things José Martí Said All Real Men Must Do 129
22. 16. Einstein in Havana 133
23. 17. Salomón the Schnorrer 138
24. 18. Mr. Fisher’s Twice-Yearly Gifts 141
25. 19. Becoming Ruth Berezniak 145
26. 20. After Everyone Has Left 150
27. 21. The Ketubah That Became a Passport 153
28. 22. When I See You Again There Will Be No Pain or Forgetting 158
29. Part Three: Traces
30. 23. Traces 163
31. Part Four: In the Provinces
32. 24. Simboulita’s Parakeet 173
33. 25. Seven Jewish Weddings in Camagüey 179
34. 26. Che Waits for a New Frame 183
35. 27. Pearls Left in Cienfuegos 187
36. 28. The Moses of Santa Clara 193
37. 29. A Conversation Next to El Mamey 202
38. 30. Villa Elisa 204
39. 31. The Covenant of Abraham 210
40. 32. Salvador’s Three Wives 213
41. 33. A Beautiful Pineapple 216
42. 34. The Last Jew of Palma Soriano 220
43. 35. The Mizrahi Clan in Guantánamo 227
44. Part Five: Shalom to Cuba
45. 36. Departures 235
46. 37. My Room on Bitterness Street 245
47. How This Book Came to Be a Photojourney 257
48. Chronology 265
49. Notes 279
50. Bibliography 283
51. Acknowledgments 289
52. List of Photographs 293
53. About the Author and Photographer 299