Feasibility of a Natural Surfactant as a Stabilizer for Cosmetics with Liposome-Encapsulated Plant Stem Cells: Pre-Formulation and Formulation Through Stability Studies

Mila Filipović; Milica Lukić; Veljko Krstonošić; Sanela Đorđević; Ivana Pantelić; Ana Gledović; Gordana Vuleta; Snežana Savić

doi:10.3139/113.110426

Article

Feasibility of a Natural Surfactant as a Stabilizer for Cosmetics with Liposome-Encapsulated Plant Stem Cells: Pre-Formulation and Formulation Through Stability Studies

Mila Filipović , Milica Lukić , Veljko Krstonošić , Sanela Đorđević , Ivana Pantelić , Ana Gledović , Gordana Vuleta and Snežana Savić

Published/Copyright: May 9, 2016

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From the journal Tenside Surfactants Detergents Volume 53 Issue 3

Abstract

During the formulation of liposome-containing products different problems can occur and the selection of a suitable carrier remains the greatest challenge. To estimate feasibility of a novel alkyl polyglucoside surfactant (hydroxystearyl alcohol and hydroxystearyl glucoside) as an emulsifier for cosmetics with liposome-encapsulated plant stem cells, we performed a two-phase study. In the first, the pre-formulation phase, the emulsifier's critical micelle concentration (CMC) and liposome-encapsulated active-emulsifier interactions were determined. The second phase was carried out to develop and characterize a cosmetic emulsion suitable to serve as a carrier for liposomes. The investigated emulsifier, with the obtained CMC value of 0.0085 wt.%, could be classified as liposome-friendly and can be used to develop stable and aesthetically acceptable cosmetics or even prospective pharmaceutical liposome-containing emulsions.

Kurzfassung

Bei der Formulierung liposomenhaltiger Produkte können verschiedene Probleme auftreten und die Auswahl eines geeigneten Carriers stellt die größte Herausforderung dar. Um die Einsatzfähigkeit eines neuen Alkylpolyglucosids (Hydroxystearylalkohol und Hydroxystearylglucosid) als Emulgator in Kosmetika, die in Liposomen eingeschlossene Pflanzenstammzellen enthalten, bestimmen zu können, führten wir eine Zweiphasenuntersuchung durch. In der ersten Phase, der Vorformulierungsphase, wurden die kritische Mizellenkonzentration (CMC) des Emulgators und die Wechselwirkungen des Emulgators mit dem in Liposomen verkapselten Aktivstoff bestimmt. Die zweite Phase wurde mit dem Ziel durchgeführt, eine kosmetische Emulsion zu entwickeln und zu charakterisieren, die als Carrier für die Liposomen geeignet ist. Der untersuchte Emulgator, dessen CMC bei 0,0085 wt.% liegt, konnte als liposomenfreundlich eingeordnet werden und wurde zur Entwicklung von stabilen und ästhetisch akzeptablen oder sogar von vielversprechenden liposomenhaltigen pharmazeutischen Emulsionen verwendet.

Key words: Liposomes; alp rose stem cells; alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier; critical micelle concentration; stability

Stichwörter: Liposomen; Alpenrosenstammzellen; Alkylpolyglucosid-Emulgator; kritische Mizellenkonzentration; Stabilität

*Correspondence address Mrs. Mila Filipović, Higher Education School of Professional Health Studies, Belgrade, Cara Dušana 254, 11000 Belgrade, Serbia. Tel.: +381641154893, E-Mail: millatrbovic@hotmail.com

Mila Filipović is currently a PhD student at at the Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology Pharmacy of the University of Belgrade – Faculty of Pharmacy. Her current research involves characterization and application of alkyl polyglucoside emulsifiers.

Milica Lukic works as research and teaching assistant at at the Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology Pharmacy of the University of Belgrade – Faculty of Pharmacy. She holds a PhD in Cosmetology. Her research interest encompasses pre-formulation and formulation of dermocosmetic emulsion systems.

Veljko Krstonosic is assistant professor at University of Novi Sad, Faculty of Medicine, Department of Pharmacy. His research interest is focused on formulation and characterization of food and skin care emulsions.

Sanela Đorđević is currently a PhD student – research assistant at the Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology Pharmacy of the University of Belgrade – Faculty of Pharmacy. Her interest encompasses nanoemulsions for parenteral and skin delivery.

Ivana Pantelić is a PhD graduate of University of Belgrade, Faculty of Pharmacy (2013). She works as research and teaching assistant at the Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology Pharmacy of the University of Belgrade – Faculty of Pharmacy. Her research interest focused on emulsion system, especially those stabilized with natural origin excipients.

Ana Gledović is currently a PhD student at the Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology Pharmacy of the University of Belgrade – Faculty of Pharmacy. Her research is focused on polyglyceryl-type surfactants-based skin care low energy nanoemulsions.

Gordana Vuleta is Full Professor at the Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology Pharmacy of the University of Belgrade – Faculty of Pharmacy. Her scientific interest ranges from preformulation studies of delivery systems for topical application to formulation and characterization of various cosmetic and pharmaceutical products.

Snezana Savic is Assistent Professor at the Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology Pharmacy of the University of Belgrade – Faculty of Pharmacy. Her research interest encompasses both the field oh Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology, especially focusd on skin delivery systems of emulsion type, novel surfactants characterization and in vivo/in vitro.

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Received: 2015-08-14

Accepted: 2016-01-15

Published Online: 2016-05-09

Published in Print: 2016-05-17

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https://doi.org/10.3139/113.110426

Keywords for this article

Liposomes; alp rose stem cells; alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier; critical micelle concentration; stability