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Chapters in this book

1. Frontmatter I
2. Preface VII
3. Abbreviations XI
4. Contents XIII
5. General Introduction 1
6. Part A: Literary Sources
7. Introduction to part A 19
8. 1 The law of the Twelve Tables (tab. 10.3–4 Bruns) 27
9. 2 Cato Origines F 113 P. – Female Dress in Public Discourse about Luxury in the Second Century BCE 43
10. 3 Naevius Lycurgus F 18 R. – Greek female bacchantes and their costume 55
11. 4 Plautus Epidicus – the dress catalogue 65
12. 5 Plautus – the catalogue of the dress dealers in the Aulularia 85
13. 6 Plautus Menaechmi – a long robe (palla) and a travesty 117
14. 8 Lucilius 179
15. 9 Varro – Menippean Satires and Logistorici 183
16. 10 Cicero – the travesty of P. Clodius Pulcher 201
17. 11 Lucretius – the invisible woman 209
18. 12 Catullus c. 64 – Ariadne, dressed and yet naked 217
19. 13 Imperial literature on dress – an overview 221
20. Part B: Dress and Dress Terms
21. Introduction to part B 227
22. 1 tunica – Roman tunica and Greek chiton 243
23. 2 pallium – the regular female cloak 277
24. 3 palla – (1) precious cloak and (2) ‘peplos’ 285
25. 4 stola/vestis longa – a dress of Roman matrons 299
26. 5 praetexta – a dress of young Roman girls 355
27. 6 toga – an attire of unfree prostitutes 365
28. 7 paenula – ‘poncho’ 375
29. 8 abolla – rough woollen cloak 379
30. 9 vestes Melitenses, vestes Coae, cyclas, gausapum – fashion and the Empire 383
31. 10 synthesis – a cosmopolitan dinner dress 401
32. 11 colores – colour, dress style, and fashion 405
33. 12 reticulum – hairnet 455
34. 13 mitra – headscarf 461
35. 14 anadema – headband 467
36. 15 strophium I – hair circlet 471
37. 16 vitta – a plaited headband and a matronal badge 475
38. 17 palliolum – scarf 485
39. 18 flammeum – bridal scarf 487
40. 19 focale – neckerchief 491
41. 20 cingillum, zona – belt 493
42. 21 strophium II – cord 499
43. 22 fascia pectoralis, capitium – the breast wrap, an erotic piece of underwear 505
44. 23 amictorium and mamillare – ‘top’ and breast-band 513
45. 24 subligar, subligaculum – ‘loin-cloth’ 515
46. 25 fascia cruralis, fascia pedulis, impilia – ‘puttees,’ ‘socks,’ and felt inner shoes 521
47. 26 calceus – the quintessential Roman shoe 525
48. 27 soccus – the laced shoe 531
49. 28 solea, sandalium – sandal 539
50. 29 crepida – Greek Sandal 543
51. 30 diabathra, Sicyonia, phaecasia, Gallica – shoes and fashion 549
52. Part C: Ancient Theory
53. Introduction to part C 559
54. 1 Varro and the Early History of Female Roman Dress 561
55. 2 Varro (VPR 306) – the toga: a Primeval Unisex Garment? 577
56. Part D: Glosses
57. Introduction to part D 587
58. 1 *ricinium (triclinium) – the Law of the Twelve Tables 591
59. 2 *arsineum, *galbeum, *rusceus – Cato Origines F 113 P. 599
60. 3 *regilla, *patagiata, *indusiata – Plautus Epidicus I 601
61. 4 *rica (tricae) – Plautus Epidicus II 617
62. 5 *supparus – Plautus Epidicus III 641
63. 6 *Capital; *caltula, *castula, *capitula; *calasis – five grammarians’ glosses 659
64. 7 *stica – a modern dress gloss 667
65. The Archaeological Evidence 671
66. Epilogue 701
67. Select Bibliography 713
68. Illustration Credits 715
69. General Index 717
70. Index locorum 731
71. Plates 1–29 755