Introduction

Chapters in this book

1. Frontmatter i
2. Contents vii
3. Acknowledgments xi
4. Introduction 1
5. Part I. Surfriding in Polynesian Culture
6. Myths, Legends, Chants, and Proverbs 17
7. 1. Samuel Mânaiakalani Kamakau, “Kelea-nui-noho-‘ana-‘api‘api” 19
8. 2. King David Kalâkaua and Roland M. Daggett, “The Story of Laie-i-ka-wai” 23
9. 3. William Westervelt, “A Surfing Legend” 26
10. 4. William Westervelt, “A Shark Punished at Waikiki” 29
11. 5. Clarice B. Taylor, “Faithless Lover Is Turned to Stone” 32
12. 6. Mary Kawena Pukui and Alfons L. Korn, “Name Chant for Naihe” 34
13. 7. Nona Beamer, “‘Auhea ‘O Ka Lani 76. (Where is the Royal Chief?)” 42
14. 8. Rerioterai Tava and Moses K. Keale Sr., “Ka Hui Nalu Mele: The Surf Club Song” 44
15. 9. Mary Kawena Pukui, Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings 47
16. Part II. Explorers, Missionaries, and Travelers (1769– 1896)
17. Introduction 51
18. 10. John Papa ‘Αî, “Activities in Court Circles,” from 10. Fragments of Hawaiian History: Kuokoa 55
19. Explorers
20. 11. Sir Joseph Banks, An Account of the Voyages Undertaken by the Order of His Present Majesty for Making Discoveries in the Southern Hemisphere 63
21. 12. William Anderson, A Voyage to the Pacific Ocean 65
22. 13. Charles Clerke, The Journals of Captain James Cook on his Voyages of Discovery 67
23. 14. William Ellis, An Authentic Narrative of a Voyage Performed by Captain Cook and Captain Clerke in His Majesty’s Ships Resolution and Discovery 69
24. 15. David Samwell, The Journals of Captain James Cook on his Voyages of Discovery 70
25. 16. George Gilbert, Captain Cook’s Final Voyage: The Journal of Midshipman George Gilbert 72
26. 17. James King, The Journals of Captain James Cook on his Voyages of Discovery 73
27. 18. John Douglas, ed., A Voyage to the Pacific Ocean 75
28. 19. William Bligh, The Log of the Bounty 77
29. 20. James Morrison, The Journal of James Morrison, Boatswain’s Mate of the Bounty 78
30. 21. Peter Puget, A Voyage of Discovery to the Northern Pacific Ocean and Round the World, 1791–1795 80
31. Missionaries
32. 22. Hiram Bingham, “Mission at the Sandwich Islands” 83
33. 23. William Ellis, Narrative of a Tour through Hawaii 86
34. 24. William Ellis, Polynesian Researches 90
35. 25. W. S. W. Ruschenberger, Narrative of a Voyage Round the World 94
36. 26. Charles Wilkes, Narrative of the United States Exploring Expedition 96
37. 27. Hiram Bingham, A Residence of Twenty-one Years in the Sandwich Islands 98
38. Travelers
39. 28. Herman Melville, Mardi and a Voyage Thither 101
40. 29. Henry T. Cheever, Life in the Sandwich Islands 104
41. 30. Chester S. Lyman, Around the Horn to the Sandwich Islands and California, 1845–1850 106
42. 31. Samuel S. Hill, Travels in the Sandwich and Society Islands 108
43. 32. Sophia Cracroft, The Victorian Visitors 112
44. 33. J. Waiamau, “Ancient Sports of Hawaii: Such as Surfing, Jumping, Sledding, Betting and Boxing” 115
45. 34. Mark Twain, Roughing It 117
46. 35. Abraham Fornander, Honolulu Directory and Historical Sketch of the Hawaiian or Sandwich Islands 118
47. 36. Isabella Bird, The Hawaiian Archipelago: Six Months among the Palm Groves, Coral Reefs and Volcanoes of the Sandwich Islands 120
48. 37. Henry Carrington Bolton, “Some Hawaiian Pastimes” 123
49. 38. Anonymous, “Hawaiian Surf Riding” 125
50. Part III. Surfriding Revival (1907–1954)
51. Introduction 135
52. 39. Jack London, “Riding The South Seas Surf” 137
53. 40. Alexander Hume Ford, “Aquatic Sports” 147
54. 41. M. Leola Crawford, Seven Weeks in Hawaii 151
55. 42. George Freeth, Article from The Evening Herald 153
56. 43. Tom Blake, Hawaiian Surfboard 155
57. 44. C. P. L. Nicholls, “Lessons in Surfing for Everyman” 161
58. 45. Thomas C. Zahn, “Surf boarding from Molokai to Waikiki” 164
59. Part IV. Youth Culture (1957–1979)
60. Introduction 173
61. 46. Frederick Kohner, Gidget 175
62. 47. Tom Wolfe, “The Pump House Gang Meets the Black 57. Panthers—or Silver Threads among the Gold in Surf City” 180
63. 48. John Witzig, “We’re Tops Now” 191
64. 49. Mickey Dora, “Mickey on Malibu” 196
65. 50. Kevin Naughton, Craig Peterson, and Greg Carpenter, “Centroamerica” 201
66. 51. Kimo Hollinger, “An Alternate Viewpoint” 208
67. 52. Jack McCoy, “We’re Number One—Interview: Ian Cairns” 213
68. 53. C. R. Stecyk III, Articles from Skateboarder Magazine 218
69. 54. Erik Aeder, “Indonesia: Just Another Paradise” 221
70. Part V. Surfing Today
71. Introduction 227
72. 55. Bruce Jenkins, “Laird Hamilton: 20th Century Man” 229
73. 56. Steve Pezman, “The Cat’s Ninth Life . . . On Visiting Miki Dora Near the End” 240
74. 57. Susan Orlean, “The Maui Surfer Girls” 247
75. 58. Steve Barilotti, “Lost Horizons: Surf Colonialism in the 21st Century” 258
76. 59. Matt Warshaw, “Winterland: Fred Van Dyke, and the Blissful, Stressful, Unpredictable Life of the Older Surfer” 269
77. Part VI. What Is Surfing?
78. Introduction 283
79. 60. William Finnegan, “Playing Doc’s Games—I” 285
80. 61. Thomas Farber, On Water 289
81. 62. Daniel Duane, Caught Inside: A Surfer’s Year on the California Coast 290
82. 63. Mark Jarman, “Ground Swell” 292
83. 64. Richard Katrovas, “The Surfer” 294
84. 65. Richard Robbins, “Surfing Accident at Trestles Beach” 296
85. 66. Allan C. Weisbecker, In Search of Captain Zero 298
86. 67. Bob Shacochis, “Return of the Prodigal Surfer” 303
87. Permissions 307
88. Notes 311
89. Bibliography 319
90. About the Editor 339