Chapters in this book

1. Frontmatter i
2. Contents vii
3. Prologue ix
4. Acknowledgments xiii
5. 1. The Fire 1
6. 2. Writing, Reality, Truth 10
7. 3. Don Rafo 15
8. 4. The Informal Economy 18
9. 5. Nacho 25
10. 6. The Bolivian Experiment 33
11. 7. Meet the Press 42
12. 8. The Colonial City 46
13. 9. Conflicts of Interest 54
14. 10. Decolonizing Ethnographic Research 58
15. 11. A Visit to the Cancha 64
16. 12. The Informal State 74
17. 13. The Modern City 80
18. 14. Market Space, Market Time 87
19. 15. Carnaval in the Cancha 95
20. 16. Security and Chaos 102
21. 17. The Informal City 108
22. 18. Convenios 117
23. 19. Political Geography 122
24. 20. Fieldwork in a Flash 131
25. 21. Women’s Work 139
26. 22. Sovereignty and Security 148
27. 23. Resisting Privatization 154
28. 24. Don Silvio 161
29. 25. Character 167
30. 26. Exploitability 175
31. 27. Market Men 182
32. 28. Webs of Illegality 190
33. 29. Men in Black 194
34. 30. At Home in the Market 200
35. 31. Owners of the Sidewalk 207
36. 32. The Seminar 214
37. 33. March of the Ambulantes 222
38. 34. Complications 230
39. 35. The Archive and the System 235
40. 36. Goodbyes 240
41. 37. Insecurity and Informality 246
42. Epilogue 252
43. Notes 257
44. References 293
45. Index 313