University of Texas Press
A Gringa in Bogotá
About this book
To many foreigners, Colombia is a nightmare of drugs and violence. Yet normal life goes on there, and, in Bogotá, it's even possible to forget that war still ravages the countryside. This paradox of perceptions—outsiders' fears versus insiders' realities—drew June Carolyn Erlick back to Bogotá for a year's stay in 2005. She wanted to understand how the city she first came to love in 1975 has made such strides toward building a peaceful civil society in the midst of ongoing violence. The complex reality she found comes to life in this compelling memoir.
Erlick creates her portrait of Bogotá through a series of vivid vignettes that cover many aspects of city life. As an experienced journalist, she lets the things she observes lead her to larger conclusions. The courtesy of people on buses, the absence of packs of stray dogs and street trash, and the willingness of strangers to help her cross an overpass when vertigo overwhelms her all become signs of convivencia—the desire of Bogotanos to live together in harmony despite decades of war. But as Erlick settles further into city life, she finds that "war in the city is invisible, but constantly present in subtle ways, almost like the constant mist that used to drip down from the Bogotá skies so many years ago."
Shattering stereotypes with its lively reporting, A Gringa in Bogotá is must-reading for going beyond the headlines about the drug war and bloody conflict.
Author / Editor information
June Carolyn Erlick lived in Bogotá from 1975 to 1984 and from 2005 to 2006 and has visited the city many times in between. A veteran journalist and foreign correspondent who now teaches feature writing at Harvard Extension and Summer Schools, she is the Editor-in-Chief of ReVista, the Harvard Review of Latin America at the David Rockefeller Center for Latin American Studies at Harvard University. Her previous books include Disappeared: A Journalist Silenced, the Irma Flaquer Story and the original Spanish version of this book, Una gringa en Bogotá.
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Frontmatter
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Contents
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Foreword: A City on Display
xi -
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Preface
xxiii -
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Acknowledgments
xxv -
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La Primera Ronda
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My Gringa Accent
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Life and Rules
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Looking for María
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View from My Window
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Dreaming of Journalism
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War and Peace
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Life on Movie Row
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Redprodepaz: Knitting Peace
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Dogs
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TransMilenio
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Three Tall Buildings
37 -
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Displaced
40 -
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Time
43 -
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Plaza de Bolívar
46 -
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Horses and Other Animals
50 -
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El Chocó: Never to the Jungle
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Artists: Beyond the Invisible Door
56 -
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Dogs II
59 -
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A City of Many Hues
62 -
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Robberies
66 -
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Random Acts of Kindness
70 -
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Upstairs, Downstairs
73 -
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Ciclovía
80 -
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Bombs and Other Loud Noises
83 -
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TransMilenio II
86 -
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Theatre
88 -
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Red, Yellow, and Blue
91 -
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Disappeared
94 -
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Good Friday: The Passion
97 -
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Books
99 -
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Gabo
101 -
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Santa Marta: Listening to Students
106 -
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The Strike
108 -
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Remolinos
111 -
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Abortion and Citizens’ Rights
116 -
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Catcalls and Unwelcome Whistles
119 -
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Electing Álvaro
122 -
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Jamundí
126 -
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TransMilenio III
130 -
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Truth and Reparations
132 -
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Dreaming of Journalism II
135 -
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CAFAM
138 -
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Epilogue
143