The Fulton Fish Market
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Jonathan H. Rees
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Reviews
Rees’s superb book is much more than an excellent history of the Fulton Fish Market—it’s a history of an important dimension of New York City and, to an extent, a history of seafood in America. It is beautifully written with excellent documentation, and it’s a delight to read!
Marion Nestle, professor of nutrition, food studies, and public health emerita, New York University, New York University, and author of Food Politics:
Rees’s history of Manhattan’s Fulton Fish Market is an elegy for a place that reached peak vibrancy in the 1920s, only to decline steadily as a result of overfishing, developers, the mafia, unions, politics, real estate prices, and eventually, more developers. Rees’s thoughtful analysis of these themes has much to tell us about the clash between the natural and built worlds in American cities over the last couple of centuries.
Cathy Kaufman, president, Culinary Historians of New York:
Jonathan H. Rees tells the gripping story of the Fulton Fish Market and the technologies that made it successful for more than 150 years. Whether examining the nineteenth century’s oceangoing fishing boats, the challenges of inadequate cold storage, the heavy hand of the mafia, or changing consumer tastes, his history of the Fulton Fish Market is fascinating.
Kenneth T. Jackson, editor in chief of The Encyclopedia of New York City:
The Fulton Fish Market, when it was on Fulton Street, was a legendary and unforgettable place. This book helps us to remember why it was unique.
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Frontmatter
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CONTENTS
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INTRODUCTION Between the City and the Sea
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1 FISH AND FISHING BEFORE FULTON MARKET
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2 THE EARLY DAYS OF FULTON MARKET
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3 FISH FROM FAR AWAY
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4 THE HEYDAY OF NEW YORK’S OYSTER INDUSTRY
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5 THE OPERATION OF A WHOLESALE FISH MARKET
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6 FISHERIES AND THE FISH MARKET
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7 TURTLE AND TERRAPIN
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8 FREEZING, COLD STORAGE, AND IMPROVEMENTS IN TRANSPORTATION
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9 FROM THE BROOKLYN BRIDGE TO THE FDR DRIVE
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10 POLLUTION AND THE DECLINE OF NEW YORK’S OYSTER INDUSTRY
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11 BUYERS
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12 THE CULTURE OF THE FULTON FISH MARKET AND ORGANIZED CRIME
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13 A MUSEUM AND TWO SHOPPING MALLS
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14 RELOCATION
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CONCLUSION After Relocation
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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
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A NOTE ON SOURCES
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NOTES
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INDEX
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