30 Informal Circular Textile Supply Chains in Türkiye
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Tulin Dzhengiz
Abstract
Whilst textile recycling has garnered significant attention in recent years, much research has concentrated on the environmental benefits and the engineering efficiency of waste management processes, particularly concerning post-consumer waste. This focus often overlooks the critical human dimension, especially the labour-intensive and informal practices involved in handling pre-consumer textile waste in the Global South. In countries with substantial textile industries, such as Türkiye, there is a considerable amount of pre-consumer production waste, yet the experiences of those who collect and sort this waste remain largely unexamined. This chapter explores the informal circular textile supply chains in Türkiye, drawing from fieldwork conducted in Istanbul. It sheds light on the often-overlooked labourers who make a living from collecting pre-consumer production waste from cutting-houses, sorting textile scraps and selling these to textile waste traders. This work is deeply rooted in communities and characterised by strong place-based ties but also by economic instability, precarious working conditions, and legal challenges, particularly for migrant workers who often work without pension or social benefits. The chapter concludes by advocating for policy interventions to recognise and support informal textile recyclers by providing legal recognition, social security, and designated recycling zones.
Abstract
Whilst textile recycling has garnered significant attention in recent years, much research has concentrated on the environmental benefits and the engineering efficiency of waste management processes, particularly concerning post-consumer waste. This focus often overlooks the critical human dimension, especially the labour-intensive and informal practices involved in handling pre-consumer textile waste in the Global South. In countries with substantial textile industries, such as Türkiye, there is a considerable amount of pre-consumer production waste, yet the experiences of those who collect and sort this waste remain largely unexamined. This chapter explores the informal circular textile supply chains in Türkiye, drawing from fieldwork conducted in Istanbul. It sheds light on the often-overlooked labourers who make a living from collecting pre-consumer production waste from cutting-houses, sorting textile scraps and selling these to textile waste traders. This work is deeply rooted in communities and characterised by strong place-based ties but also by economic instability, precarious working conditions, and legal challenges, particularly for migrant workers who often work without pension or social benefits. The chapter concludes by advocating for policy interventions to recognise and support informal textile recyclers by providing legal recognition, social security, and designated recycling zones.
Chapters in this book
- Frontmatter I
- Contents V
- Contributors IX
- Introducing Fashion Supply Chains and Operations 1
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Section I: Perspectives on Fashion Supply Chains and Operations
- 1 Interwoven: A Historical Examination of Relational Capital in the Context of Shetland Hand Knitting and the Barter Economy 11
- 2 The Evolution of the Fashion Supply Chain 25
- 3 Legislating Fashion Circularity: Policy Design Challenges 43
- 4 Coopetition for Fashion Supply Chains 55
- 5 Fashion Supply Chain Management in Disruptions 71
- 6 Fair Trade Fashion Branding and Entrepreneurship: Challenges and Opportunities 87
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Section II: Geographies of Fashion Supply Chain Operations
- 7 Consumer Textile Recycling Behaviour in Hong Kong and Implications for Fashion Supply Chain Management 99
- 8 Artificial Intelligence and the Transformation of Fashion Supply Chains: Applications in China 115
- 9 Opportunities and Challenges of China’s Silk Supply Chain 129
- 10 Refugee Workers in Global Fashion Supply Chains 145
- 11 A Circular Reformation of Slow Fashion Supply Chains Through Industrial Symbiosis: A Case Study from Turkey 161
- 12 Fashion Supply Chain Challenges in Brazil 177
- 13 Review of Procurement Practices in the South African Clothing Industry 189
- 14 The Final Stop in the Fast Fashion Supply Chain: Waste Management Practices in Ghana’s Second-Hand Clothing Trade 207
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Section III: Operations Transformation in Fashion Supply Chains
- 15 Decoding Blockchain Technology: Understanding the Impact for Luxury Fashion Supply Chains 225
- 16 Fashion Product Development for Clothing Longevity in the Supply Chain 245
- 17 Regenerative Systems in Textile and Fashion Supply Chains 259
- 18 Digital Technology and Modern Slavery in Fashion Supply Chains 275
- 19 Ethical Implications of AI-Driven Trend Forecasting in Fast Fashion 287
- 20 Unlocking Sustainability in Fashion Supply Chains Through Industrial Digital Technologies 303
- 21 Adopting a Design Thinking Approach to Embedding Sustainability Practices into Fashion Supply Chain Education 319
- 22 Reframing Fast Fashion: A Paradigm Shift for the Two Dirtiest Words in Our Fashion Vocabulary and the Introduction of Flow Fashion 333
- 23 Circular Fashion Ecosystems: The Role of Social Enterprises in Blending Environmental and Social Sustainability 345
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Section IV: Implementing Sustainable Operations in Fashion Supply Chains
- 24 Exploring Challenges and Enablers in Textile Recycling Supply Chains 363
- 25 The Scottish Cashmere Supply Chain: An Investigation of Reuse Through Sustainability as a Service 379
- 26 Weak Sustainability, Strong Structures: Approaches to Change by Two Industries Within the Global Textile Value Chain 393
- 27 Transparency in Fashion Supply Chains: Examining the Influence of Country Regulation 407
- 28 Sustainable Fashion Supply Chains: Innovative Practices of Chinese Silk Enterprises 425
- 29 Sustainable Fashion Supply Chain Management: Environmental Focus on Bangladesh 441
- 30 Informal Circular Textile Supply Chains in Türkiye 459
- 31 Traceability, Transparency, and Collaboration for Sustainable Fashion Supply Chains 477
- Index
- De Gruyter Handbooks in Business
Chapters in this book
- Frontmatter I
- Contents V
- Contributors IX
- Introducing Fashion Supply Chains and Operations 1
-
Section I: Perspectives on Fashion Supply Chains and Operations
- 1 Interwoven: A Historical Examination of Relational Capital in the Context of Shetland Hand Knitting and the Barter Economy 11
- 2 The Evolution of the Fashion Supply Chain 25
- 3 Legislating Fashion Circularity: Policy Design Challenges 43
- 4 Coopetition for Fashion Supply Chains 55
- 5 Fashion Supply Chain Management in Disruptions 71
- 6 Fair Trade Fashion Branding and Entrepreneurship: Challenges and Opportunities 87
-
Section II: Geographies of Fashion Supply Chain Operations
- 7 Consumer Textile Recycling Behaviour in Hong Kong and Implications for Fashion Supply Chain Management 99
- 8 Artificial Intelligence and the Transformation of Fashion Supply Chains: Applications in China 115
- 9 Opportunities and Challenges of China’s Silk Supply Chain 129
- 10 Refugee Workers in Global Fashion Supply Chains 145
- 11 A Circular Reformation of Slow Fashion Supply Chains Through Industrial Symbiosis: A Case Study from Turkey 161
- 12 Fashion Supply Chain Challenges in Brazil 177
- 13 Review of Procurement Practices in the South African Clothing Industry 189
- 14 The Final Stop in the Fast Fashion Supply Chain: Waste Management Practices in Ghana’s Second-Hand Clothing Trade 207
-
Section III: Operations Transformation in Fashion Supply Chains
- 15 Decoding Blockchain Technology: Understanding the Impact for Luxury Fashion Supply Chains 225
- 16 Fashion Product Development for Clothing Longevity in the Supply Chain 245
- 17 Regenerative Systems in Textile and Fashion Supply Chains 259
- 18 Digital Technology and Modern Slavery in Fashion Supply Chains 275
- 19 Ethical Implications of AI-Driven Trend Forecasting in Fast Fashion 287
- 20 Unlocking Sustainability in Fashion Supply Chains Through Industrial Digital Technologies 303
- 21 Adopting a Design Thinking Approach to Embedding Sustainability Practices into Fashion Supply Chain Education 319
- 22 Reframing Fast Fashion: A Paradigm Shift for the Two Dirtiest Words in Our Fashion Vocabulary and the Introduction of Flow Fashion 333
- 23 Circular Fashion Ecosystems: The Role of Social Enterprises in Blending Environmental and Social Sustainability 345
-
Section IV: Implementing Sustainable Operations in Fashion Supply Chains
- 24 Exploring Challenges and Enablers in Textile Recycling Supply Chains 363
- 25 The Scottish Cashmere Supply Chain: An Investigation of Reuse Through Sustainability as a Service 379
- 26 Weak Sustainability, Strong Structures: Approaches to Change by Two Industries Within the Global Textile Value Chain 393
- 27 Transparency in Fashion Supply Chains: Examining the Influence of Country Regulation 407
- 28 Sustainable Fashion Supply Chains: Innovative Practices of Chinese Silk Enterprises 425
- 29 Sustainable Fashion Supply Chain Management: Environmental Focus on Bangladesh 441
- 30 Informal Circular Textile Supply Chains in Türkiye 459
- 31 Traceability, Transparency, and Collaboration for Sustainable Fashion Supply Chains 477
- Index
- De Gruyter Handbooks in Business
