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Textiles of Medieval Iberia
Cloth and Clothing in a Multi-Cultural Context
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Edited by:
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With contributions by:
Language:
English
Published/Copyright:
2022
About this book
An examination of the fabrics, garments and cloth of the Iberian Middle Ages, bringing out in particular the international context.
The Medieval Iberian Peninsula, encompassing various territories which make up present-day Spain and Portugal, was an ethnic and religious melting pot, comprising Christian, Jewish and Muslim communities, each contributing to a vibrant textile economy. They were also defined and distinguished by the material culture of clothing and dress, partly dictated by religious and cultural tradition, partly imposed by rulers anxious to avoid cross-ethnic relationships considered undesirable. Nevertheless, textiles, especially magnificent Islamic silks, crossed these barriers.
The essays in this volume offer the first full analysis of Iberian textiles from the period, drawing on both material remains and historical documents, supported by evidence from contemporary artwork. Chapters cover surviving textiles, many of them magnificent silks; textile industries and trade; court dress and its use as a language of power and patronage; the vast market in utilitarian textiles for lower-status clothing and furnishings; and Muslim and Jewish dress. It also considers Arabic and Jewish texts as sources of information on textiles and the Arabic garment-names which crossed into Spanish. Particular emphasis is given to the the different ethnicities of Iberia and their influences on the use and trade of garments (both precious and common-place) and textiles.
The Medieval Iberian Peninsula, encompassing various territories which make up present-day Spain and Portugal, was an ethnic and religious melting pot, comprising Christian, Jewish and Muslim communities, each contributing to a vibrant textile economy. They were also defined and distinguished by the material culture of clothing and dress, partly dictated by religious and cultural tradition, partly imposed by rulers anxious to avoid cross-ethnic relationships considered undesirable. Nevertheless, textiles, especially magnificent Islamic silks, crossed these barriers.
The essays in this volume offer the first full analysis of Iberian textiles from the period, drawing on both material remains and historical documents, supported by evidence from contemporary artwork. Chapters cover surviving textiles, many of them magnificent silks; textile industries and trade; court dress and its use as a language of power and patronage; the vast market in utilitarian textiles for lower-status clothing and furnishings; and Muslim and Jewish dress. It also considers Arabic and Jewish texts as sources of information on textiles and the Arabic garment-names which crossed into Spanish. Particular emphasis is given to the the different ethnicities of Iberia and their influences on the use and trade of garments (both precious and common-place) and textiles.
Author / Editor information
Contributor: Gale R Owen-Crocker
Gale R. Owen-Crocker is Professor Emerita of the University of Manchester where she was previously Professor of Anglo-Saxon Culture and Director of the Manchester Centre for Anglo-Saxon Studies.
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Contributor: María Barrigón
María Barrigón is a curator responsible for medieval textiles at the Patrimonio Nacional, Madrid, Spain. She has published on the Las Huelgas collection and other early textiles.
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Contributor: Naḥum Ben-Yehuda
Naḥum Ben-Yehuda is an ordained rabbi and MA in Jewish history. He researches and publishes on textiles and garments in Biblical and Rabbinic texts.
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Contributor: Joana Sequeira
Joana Sequeira is a Contracted Researcher at the University of Minho (Lab2PT), Portugal. A medieval economic historian, she publishes on textile production, trade and consumption.
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Contributor: María Barrigón
María Barrigón is a curator responsible for medieval textiles at the Patrimonio Nacional, Madrid, Spain. She has published on the Las Huelgas collection and other early textiles.
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Contributor: Naḥum Ben-Yehuda
Naḥum Ben-Yehuda is an ordained rabbi and MA in Jewish history. He researches and publishes on textiles and garments in Biblical and Rabbinic texts.
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Contributor: Gale R Owen-Crocker
Gale R. Owen-Crocker is Professor Emerita of the University of Manchester where she was previously Professor of Anglo-Saxon Culture and Director of the Manchester Centre for Anglo-Saxon Studies.
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Contributor: Joana Sequeira
Joana Sequeira is a Contracted Researcher at the University of Minho (Lab2PT), Portugal. A medieval economic historian, she publishes on textile production, trade and consumption.
Reviews
The book convincingly demonstrates the chain of production and consumption that linked the Iberian Peninsula to a broader, interconnected medieval globe.
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Richement illustré, agrémenté de deux index dont un consacré aux termes textiles, il offre un panorama général sur l'économie textile et la culture matérielle de l'habillement dans la péninsule Ibérique médiévale qui englobait alors une multitude de territoires constituant l'Espagne et le Portugal actuels, et se distinguait par un brassage ethnique et religieux entre chrétiens, musulmans et juifs.
Richly illustrated, embellished with two indexes including one devoted to textile terms, it offers a general overview of the textile economy and the material culture of clothing in the peninsula Medieval Iberia, which then encompassed a multitude of territories constituting modern day Spain and Portugal, and was distinguished by an ethnic mix and religious between Christians, Muslims and Jews.
Richly illustrated, embellished with two indexes including one devoted to textile terms, it offers a general overview of the textile economy and the material culture of clothing in the peninsula Medieval Iberia, which then encompassed a multitude of territories constituting modern day Spain and Portugal, and was distinguished by an ethnic mix and religious between Christians, Muslims and Jews.
Topics
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Frontmatter
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Contents
v -
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List of Figures
vii -
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List of Maps
xii -
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List of Tables
xiii -
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Contributors
xv -
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Acknowledgements
xxi -
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Introduction
1 - I: The Historical Background/Context
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1 From the Five Kingdoms to the Hispanic Monarchy: Political Structures, Ideology and Historical Development in the Medieval Iberian Peninsula (1157–1504)
11 - II: Techniques, Trade and Industry
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2 Textile Techniques in the Iberian Peninsula (Thirteenth to Fourteenth Centuries)
41 -
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3 Cloth Trade in the Iberian Kingdoms during the Late Middle Ages
69 -
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4 Textiles in the Crown of Aragon: Production, Commerce, Consumption
93 -
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5 The Textile Industry in al-Andalus
123 -
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6 Flax, Wool and Silk: Textile Industries in Medieval Portugal
141 - III: Social Context
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7 Dress as a Language: A Survey of Arabic Texts from al-Andalus
167 -
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8 Muslim Dress in Medieval Portugal: Textual Evidence in the Context of the Iberian Peninsula
189 -
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9 Medieval Castilian Garments and their Arabic Names
207 -
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10 Clothing, Furnishings and Ceremonies at the Castilian Court (c. 1214− c. 1332)
233 -
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11 Fabrics and Attire at the Court of Navarre in the Second Half of the Fourteenth Century
265 -
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12 Textile Production and Jewish Clothing in the Iberian Peninsula: Characteristics, Customs and Differences between Catalan and Other Jewish Communities
295 -
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13 Silk as Reflected in Medieval Iberian Jewish Literature
319 -
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14 The Garment and the Difference: The Attire of Portuguese Jews and New Christians (Conversos) during the Thirteenth to Fifteenth centuries
347 -
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General Index
365 -
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Index of Textile Terms
383
Publishing information
Pages and Images/Illustrations in book
eBook published on:
January 4, 2024
eBook ISBN:
9781800106529
Original publisher:
Boydell Press
Pages and Images/Illustrations in book
eBook ISBN:
9781800106529
Keywords for this book
Textiles; Medieval Iberian Peninsula; Spain; Portugal; Christian; Jewish; Muslim communities; clothing; dress; material culture; international context; Islamic silks; ethnic diversity; court dress; power; patronage; utilitarian textiles; Muslim dress; Jewish dress; historical documents; artwork
Audience(s) for this book
For an expert adult audience, including professional development and academic research
