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Mesquite Pods to Mezcal

10,000 Years of Oaxacan Cuisines
  • Edited by: Verónica Pérez Rodríguez , Shanti Morell-Hart and Stacie M. King
Language: English
Published/Copyright: 2024
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About this book

New case studies documenting ten thousand years of cuisines across the cultures of Oaxaca, Mexico, from the earliest gathered plants, such as guajes, to the contemporary production of tejate and its health implications.

Among the richest culinary traditions in Mexico are those of the “eight regions” of the state of Oaxaca. Mesquite Pods to Mezcal brings together some of the most prominent scholars in Oaxacan archaeology and related fields to explore the evolution of the area’s world-renowned cuisines. This volume, the first to address food practices across Oaxaca through a long-term historical lens, covers the full spectrum of human occupation in Oaxaca, from the early Holocene to contemporary times. Contributors consider the deep history of agroecological management and large-scale landscape transformation, framing food production as a human-environment relation. They explore how, after the arrival of the Spanish, Oaxacan cuisines adapted, diets changed, and food became a stronger marker of identity. Examining the present, further studies document how traditional foodways persist and what they mean for contemporary Oaxacans, whether they are traveling ancient roads, working outside the region, or rebuilding after an earthquake. Together, the original case studies in this volume demonstrate how new methods and diverse theoretical approaches can come together to trace the development of a rich food tradition, one that is thriving today.

Author / Editor information

Verónica Pérez Rodríguez is an associate professor of anthropology at the University of Albany, SUNY.

Shanti Morell-Hart is an associate professor of anthropology at Brown University.

Stacie M. King is a professor of anthropology at Indiana University.

Reviews

This is the most exciting book to be published in the archaeology of food studies in a long time! What a delicious treat of cutting-edge research paired with the fascinating time depth of Oaxacan culinary traditions. From food gentrification to contemporary agrobiodiversity, this is archaeology at its best—providing rich documentation of Indigenous innovation and resilience over deep time and in the world today. This volume will be essential to anyone interested in how food is something larger than itself.
— Traci Ardren, University of Miami, editor of Her Cup for Sweet Cacao: Food in Ancient Maya Society

Mesquite Pods to Mescal offers a diverse array of perspectives, techniques, and information—at times dealing with the most minute archaeological traces—to present unprecedented portraits of one of the world’s great culinary regions. Starting with the most ancient contexts and moving through time to contemporary, transnational life, the chapters give a fresh, innovative perspective on the ebb and flow of ingredients, implements, and techniques that are the heart of daily life, special events, deeply held beliefs, and resilient fortitude of Indigenous Oaxacans. The authors deftly navigate the complex landscape of wild and cultivated food, drink, and medicine ingredients, and conversely, show how a 'simple' tortilla is anything but. Savor this book with a delicious cup of tejate.
— Kathryn E. Sampeck, Illinois State University and the University of Reading, coeditor of Substance and Seduction: Ingested Commodities in Early Modern Mesoamerica

A fascinating insight into the evolution of Oaxacan cuisine since pre-Columbian times...it provides worthwhile sustenance on the way to addressing contemporary challenges such as food security, sovereignty, sustainability, and cultural rights.
— Latin American Review of Books

The authors do not simply conduct tangible analyses of bones, ceramics, residences, fields, caves, but they also strive to show how their findings relate to broader patterns of identity, inclusion (or exclusion), movement, and connectivity...[The book] artfully gives the reader a window into centuries of foodways and stuffs in Oaxaca.
— H-Environment

Oaxaca’s culinary roots indeed reach deep into the past, as is shown by the essays in this splendid collection...With novel scholarly insights on beloved traditions, this book holds much of interest, not only for archaeologists and food studies scholars, but also for aficionados of Oaxacan cuisine.
— ReVista

By gathering cross-disciplinary chapters, the volume successfully explores concepts of edibility and changes in taste over time, along with identity, ritual symbolism, and social complexity.
— Ethnohistory


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Lila Downs
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Andrea M. Cuéllar, Verónica Pérez Rodríguez, Shanti Morell-Hart and Stacie M. King
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1
PART I. THE ROOTS OF OAXACAN CUISINE

Aleksander Borejsza, Arthur Joyce and Jon C. Lohse
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Shanti Morell-Hart and Éloi Bérubé
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Víctor E. Salazar Chávez and Jeffrey P. Blomster
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PART II. OAXACAN FOODWAYS IN ECONOMIC AND SPIRITUAL LIFE

Gary M. Feinman and Linda M. Nicholas
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Verónica Pérez Rodríguez
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Robert Markens and Cira Martínez López
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Jennifer Saumur and Aurélie Manin
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PART III. DISRUPTED, INNOVATED, AND RESILIENT CUISINES

Marc N. Levine and Kathryn Puseman
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Stacie M. King and Shanti Morell-Hart
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Éloi Bérubé and Jamie E. Forde
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PART IV. LIVING CULINARY TRADITIONS

Nelly M. Robles García
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269

Anya Peterson Royce
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Daniela Soleri, María del Carmen Castillo Cisneros, Flavio Aragón Cuevas and David A. Cleveland
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Publishing information
Pages and Images/Illustrations in book
eBook published on:
February 6, 2024
eBook ISBN:
9781477327975
Pages and Images/Illustrations in book
Main content:
344
Other:
90 illustrations
Downloaded on 19.9.2025 from https://www.degruyterbrill.com/document/doi/10.7560/327968/html
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