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10. Formulation of shampoos

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Formulations
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10 Formulation of shampoos10.1 IntroductionThe purpose of a shampoo is to clean the hair from sebum, dead epidermal cells,residuesfromhairdressing,hairsprays,dust,etc.[1–4].Itmustalsoremovethegreasysubstancesofhairoils,pomadesandhairsprays.Soiledhairlackslustre,becomesoilyand unmanageable and develops an unpleasant odour. The shampoo must clean thehair and leave it in a lustrous, manageable condition. This requires the application ofsurfactants and hair conditioners, the so-called “two-in-one” shampoos. Shampooscan be formulated as clear, pearly or opaque liquids, gels or creams.Shampoosshouldpossessgood,stablefoamingactionwhichdependsonthesur-factantsusedandtheadditivesthatareincorporated.Goodshampoosshouldprovidesatisfactorycleaningpowerandeasyrinsingwithoutproducingsoapscuminanywa-ter hardness. They also should give a soft touch to the hair, with good manageabilityaftershampooing.Theshampooshouldalsohavealoworderofirritationtoskinandeyes. In addition, for consumer appeal, the product should have an attractive colourand fragrance, and make a rich and mild foam.Two types of shampoos are marketed, namely powder shampoo and liquid type.The latter can be a clear liquid with low, medium or high (gel form) viscosity. Alter-natively the shampoo can be an opaque liquid shampoo consisting of either a pearlyliquid or milk lotion shampoo. From the point of view of functions and application,theshampoocanbeplain,medicated(anti-dandruffordeodorant),conditioningandlow irritation (baby shampoo).InthischapterIwilldiscussthefollowingpointsthatarerelevantforformulatinga conditioning shampoo: (i) The surfactants used in shampoo formulations. (ii) Thedesirable properties of a shampoo. (iii) The components that are used in the formu-lation. (iv) The role of the ingredients: mixed surfactant systems and their synergisticactiontolowerskinirritation,cleansingfunction,foamboosters,thickeningagentsasrheologymodifiersandsiliconeoilemulsionsinshampoos.Thesubjectofhaircondi-tionerswillbedealtwithinthenextchapterwithparticularreferencetothestructureand properties of human hair.10.2 Surfactants for use in shampoo formulations [2, 3]10.2.1 Anionic surfactantsAlkyl carboxylates or soaps, with C12–C14chain and counterions of potassium, di-or tri-ethanolamine are sometimes used in shampoos in combination with alkyl sul-phates or polyoxyethylene ether sulphate. These carboxylates are applied as foam
© 2016 Walter de Gruyter GmbH, Berlin/Munich/Boston

10 Formulation of shampoos10.1 IntroductionThe purpose of a shampoo is to clean the hair from sebum, dead epidermal cells,residuesfromhairdressing,hairsprays,dust,etc.[1–4].Itmustalsoremovethegreasysubstancesofhairoils,pomadesandhairsprays.Soiledhairlackslustre,becomesoilyand unmanageable and develops an unpleasant odour. The shampoo must clean thehair and leave it in a lustrous, manageable condition. This requires the application ofsurfactants and hair conditioners, the so-called “two-in-one” shampoos. Shampooscan be formulated as clear, pearly or opaque liquids, gels or creams.Shampoosshouldpossessgood,stablefoamingactionwhichdependsonthesur-factantsusedandtheadditivesthatareincorporated.Goodshampoosshouldprovidesatisfactorycleaningpowerandeasyrinsingwithoutproducingsoapscuminanywa-ter hardness. They also should give a soft touch to the hair, with good manageabilityaftershampooing.Theshampooshouldalsohavealoworderofirritationtoskinandeyes. In addition, for consumer appeal, the product should have an attractive colourand fragrance, and make a rich and mild foam.Two types of shampoos are marketed, namely powder shampoo and liquid type.The latter can be a clear liquid with low, medium or high (gel form) viscosity. Alter-natively the shampoo can be an opaque liquid shampoo consisting of either a pearlyliquid or milk lotion shampoo. From the point of view of functions and application,theshampoocanbeplain,medicated(anti-dandruffordeodorant),conditioningandlow irritation (baby shampoo).InthischapterIwilldiscussthefollowingpointsthatarerelevantforformulatinga conditioning shampoo: (i) The surfactants used in shampoo formulations. (ii) Thedesirable properties of a shampoo. (iii) The components that are used in the formu-lation. (iv) The role of the ingredients: mixed surfactant systems and their synergisticactiontolowerskinirritation,cleansingfunction,foamboosters,thickeningagentsasrheologymodifiersandsiliconeoilemulsionsinshampoos.Thesubjectofhaircondi-tionerswillbedealtwithinthenextchapterwithparticularreferencetothestructureand properties of human hair.10.2 Surfactants for use in shampoo formulations [2, 3]10.2.1 Anionic surfactantsAlkyl carboxylates or soaps, with C12–C14chain and counterions of potassium, di-or tri-ethanolamine are sometimes used in shampoos in combination with alkyl sul-phates or polyoxyethylene ether sulphate. These carboxylates are applied as foam
© 2016 Walter de Gruyter GmbH, Berlin/Munich/Boston

Chapters in this book

  1. Frontmatter I
  2. Preface V
  3. Contents IX
  4. 1. General introduction 1
  5. 2. Surfactants used in cosmetic and personal care formulations, their properties and surfactant– polymer interaction 11
  6. 3. Polymeric surfactants in cosmetic formulations 51
  7. 4. Self-assembly structures in cosmetic formulations 73
  8. 5. Interaction forces between particles or droplets in cosmetic formulations and their combination 83
  9. 6. Formulation of cosmetic emulsions 105
  10. 7. Formulation of nanoemulsions in cosmetics 147
  11. 8. Formulation of multiple emulsions in cosmetics 179
  12. 9. Liposomes and vesicles in cosmetic formulations 193
  13. 10. Formulation of shampoos 201
  14. 11. Formulation of hair conditioners in shampoos 217
  15. 12. Formulation of sunscreens for UV protection 231
  16. 13. Formulation of colour cosmetics 249
  17. 14. Industrial examples of cosmetic and personal care formulations 271
  18. Index 287
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https://doi.org/10.1515/9783110452389-011

Chapters in this book

  1. Frontmatter I
  2. Preface V
  3. Contents IX
  4. 1. General introduction 1
  5. 2. Surfactants used in cosmetic and personal care formulations, their properties and surfactant– polymer interaction 11
  6. 3. Polymeric surfactants in cosmetic formulations 51
  7. 4. Self-assembly structures in cosmetic formulations 73
  8. 5. Interaction forces between particles or droplets in cosmetic formulations and their combination 83
  9. 6. Formulation of cosmetic emulsions 105
  10. 7. Formulation of nanoemulsions in cosmetics 147
  11. 8. Formulation of multiple emulsions in cosmetics 179
  12. 9. Liposomes and vesicles in cosmetic formulations 193
  13. 10. Formulation of shampoos 201
  14. 11. Formulation of hair conditioners in shampoos 217
  15. 12. Formulation of sunscreens for UV protection 231
  16. 13. Formulation of colour cosmetics 249
  17. 14. Industrial examples of cosmetic and personal care formulations 271
  18. Index 287
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